UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  Agricultural  experiment  Station 

COLLEGE   OF  AGRICULTURE  E-  J-  WiCKSON.  director 

BERKELEY,  CALIFORNIA 


CIRCULAR  No.  46 

(October,  1909) 


SUGGESTIONS  FOR  GARDEN  WORK 
IN   CALIFORNIA  SCHOOLS 


BY 


ERNEST    B.    BABCOCK 


BERKELEY 

THE   UNIVERSITY   PRESS 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Introduction 5 

Purpose  of  this  Circular.. 7 

The  Garden  Movement 9 

What  Teachers  Have  Done 11 

Letter  from  Teacher  in  Ventura 11 

Explanation  of  Figures  in  Circular 12 

School  Bank  in  the  Chico  Normal  Training  School 13 

What  Teachers  Can  Do.     General  discussion 15 

Boys '  Experimental  Clubs 17 

Small  Rural  and  Special  Ungraded  Schools 19 

Classified  List  of  Plants  Suitable  for  Experimental  Plant  Improve- 
ment and  School  Garden  Work 22 

Large  Rural,  Town  and  City  Schools 23 

Outline  of  Nature-Study  by  Groups..... 25 

Planting   Guide 27 

Where  to  Obtain  Seeds 30 

Instructions  for  Teachers  Beginning  Garden  Work 33 

Selection  of  Location 33 

Laying  Out  Gardens 34 

Preparation  of  Soil 36 

Planting    Seeds 36 

Planting  Bulbs 38 

Planting  Shrubs  and  Trees 39 

Value  of  Furrow  Irrigation 40 

Cultivation 41 

Time  Necessary  for  Garden  Work 41 

The  Garden  During  Vacation 41 

How    to    Secure    Special    Preparation    for    Teaching    Nature-Study 

Within  California 43 

List  of  Publications  Referred  to  by  Number  in  this  Circular 45 


School  gardens  teach,  among  other  things,  private  care  for 
public  property,  economy,  honesty,  application,  concentration, 
justice,  the  dignity  of  labor,  and  love  for  the  beauties  of 
nature. — James  Ralph  Jewel. 


SUGGESTIONS  FOR  GARDEN  WORK  IN 
CALIFORNIA  SCHOOLS 


BY 
EENEST  B.  BABCOCK. 


INTRODUCTION. 

To  the  teachers  in  California  public  schools  no  apology  should 
be  needed  for  introducing  the  subject  of  gardening.  The  school 
garden  has  come  to  stay.  It  is  not  a  fad.  On  the  contrary,  it 
is  "a  fundamental  prerequisite  to  all  true  nature-study,"  and 
the  value  and  place  of  true  nature-study  is  now  firmly  estab- 
lished. The  term  nature-study  is  more  or  less  familiar  to  all, 
but  the  conception  of  the  meaning  of  real  nature-study  is  not 
so  general.  However,  the  works  of  Hodge,  Jackman,  Bailey, 
Holtz,  and  others  and  the  "Nature-Study  Review,"  the  official 
organ  of  the  Nature-Study  Association,  together  with  the  efforts 
of  educational  institutions  from  the  national  bureau  down  to 
the  individual  normal  schools,  are  all  helping  to  infuse  the  new 
ideal  into  the  minds  of  American  teachers.  Nature-study  is 
many  sided.  The  physical,  the  biological,  the  agricultural  phases 
all  have  their  valuable  features,  but  authorities  are  quite  gener- 
ally agreed  that,  if  any  one  phase  deserves  prominence,  that 
phase  is  the  agricultural  especially  when  introduced  through 
garden  work. 

As  the  result  of  local  efforts,  made  from  time  to  time  through- 
out the  State,  many  successful  children 's  gardens  are  flourishing 
today.  But  these  are  as  yet  confined  too  largely  to  the  cities 
and  towns.  The  patrons  and  teachers  of  rural  schools  seem 
less  willing  to  take  up  this  new  line  of  work.  There  are  many 
reasons  for  this  attitude  and  one  may  not  criticize  without  due 
regard  for  these  reasons.  On  the  other  hand  the  schools  of 
many  of  our  most  progressive  cities  and  towns  are  as  yet  unpro- 
vided with  proper  facilities  for  garden  work.     These  conditions 


exist  although  it  is  largely  a  matter  of  realizing  the  great  desir- 
ability of  this  phase  of  school  life  and  then  having  the  will  to 
secure  it.  "We  wish  that  every  teacher  in  California  might  read 
the  report  on  School  Gardens  written  for  the  National  Bureau 
of  Education  by  James  Ralph  Jewell.1  In  concluding  Mr.  Jew- 
ell writes  as  follows : 

"Are  there  too  many  obstacles  in  the  way  of  establishing  and 
maintaining  a  garden  in  connection  with  the  average  school, 
urban  or  rural,  to  prevent  its  being  a  success?  I  believe  not. 
I  do  not  know  in  what  other  undertaking  there  are  so  many 
demonstrations  that  where  there  is  a  will  there  is  a  way. 
There  is  no  record  of  a  failure  in  any  city  slums  except  for  want 
of  funds,  although,  so  far  as  I  know,  every  neighborhood  has 
been,  if  not  hostile  at  the  first,  at  least  incredulous  of  the  possi- 
bility of  success.  It  would  perhaps  be  hard  to  name  a  difficulty 
which  has  not  been  overcome  or  circumvented  in  some  way  by 
the  enthusiasm  of  the  children  and  the  careful  planning  of  a 
competent  teacher. 

"Nor  is  this  educational  agency  confined  to  city  schools.  In 
Europe  the  school  garden  is  held  to  be  especially  an  adjunct  of 
the  rural  school;  in  Canada  the  consolidated  rural  schools  have 
the  best  gardens.  True,  there  cannot  be  a  very  elaborate  garden 
at  a  school  of  only  ten  or  a  dozen  children;  but  Superintendent 
Kern  (of  Winnebago  County,  Illinois)  and  others  have  taught 
the  teachers  under  them  to  make  the  most  possible  of  gardens  in 
very  small  rural  schools,  with  no  aid  except  that  so  readily  given 
by  the  children.2  It  is  strange  that  other  countries  think  gardens 
especially  fitted  for  rural  schools,  while  we  think  them  better 
for  city  schools.  Probably  it  is  because  we  are  apt  to  fold  our 
hands  complacently  and  say  that  the  children  of  our  rural  com- 
munities learn  practical  agriculture  at  home.  Well  and  good, 
but  do  they  learn  the  best  ?  Would  not  the  school  garden  in  the 
country  teach  even  more  than  the  children  pick  up  from  what 
they  see  done  at  home?  How  many  a  farm  boy,  who  will  prac- 
tice farming  all  his  life,  goes  through  his  school  life  in  the  school 
and  at  home  without  knowing  how  the  roots  of  corn  spread  out, 
or  how  to  cultivate  the  corn  properly  to  insure  the  largest  yield, 
except  as  he  follows  what  he  sees  others  do  and  without  knowing 
a  hundred  things  of  the  kind  which  science  is  waiting  for  him 
to  learn  and  utilize?     How  many  country  boys  have  been  given 

1  For  references  by  number  see  pages  43  and  44. 

2  See  "Among  Country  Schools,"  by  O.  J.  Kern,  Ginn  &  Co.,  Boston. 


anything  to  think  of  as  they  hoe  potatoes  except  that  their  city 
cousins  are  not  blistering  their  hands  so? 

"Of  what  value  are  school  gardens?  What  can  they  be  de- 
pended upon  to  do?  Certainly,  what  they  have  done,  at  least. 
They  have  given  whole  schools  a  new  incentive,  and  have  raised 
the  daily  attendance  materially ;  they  have  proved  an  open  se- 
same into  both  the  problems  and  interests  of  life  to  children 
always  before  considered  dull;  in  cities  where  some  children 
had  school  gardens  and  some  had  not,  the  former  are  reported 
to  have  made  much  greater  development  in  a  given  time  than 
the  latter;  after  certain  schools  had  allowed  their  children  to 
devote  as  much  as  two  hours  a  day  to  their  gardens  the  pupils 
accomplished  more  Avith  their  regular  studies  during  the  rest  of 
the  day  than  they  had  done  before  in  all  the  time.  Country 
children  have  become  interested  in  the  science  of  their  future 
life  occupation,  and  so  have  been  taught  to  think  for  themselves 
and  to  respect  their  calling.  Children  have  been  taught  through 
these  gardens  more  about  practical  ethics  than  by  any  other 
means  yet  devised,  besides  learning  something  of  the  funda- 
mental occupation  of  mankind — tilling  the  earth. ' ' 

These  words,  from  the  pen  of  an  authority  who  has  exam- 
ined the  history  of  school  gardens  from  their  origin  and  investi- 
gated their  status  in  all  countries,  are  words  not  to  be  lightly  set 
aside  or  forgotten.  Therefore,  it  is  with  the  hope  that  more 
people  may  be  interested  and  more  teachers  encouraged  in  be- 
ginning garden  work  in  the  public  schools  that  this  circular  is 
issued. 

PURPOSE  OF  THIS  CIRCULAR. 

1.  To  interest  California  educators  in  the  subject  of  school 
gardens ; 

(a)  By  telling  and  illustrating  some  things  that  have  been 
done. 

(b)  Through  suggesting  what  may  be  accomplished  by  our 
school  children  under  proper  leadership. 

2.  To  give  brief  directions  and  suggestions  for  the  use  of 
those  who  have  no  other  guide  at  hand  and  a  list  of  references 
to  easily  available  literature. 

3.  To  state  briefly  what  opportunities  there  are  in  California 
to  obtain  special  preparation  for  teaching  elementary  agriculture 
including  school  gardening. 


A 


be 


The  Garden  Movement. 

School  garden  beginnings  in  America  formed  only  a  part  of  a 
greater  garden  movement,  which  had  its  origin  some  fifteen  years 
ago.  Certain  practical  philanthropists  in  onr  large  cities  saw 
the  need  of  providing  work  for  the  unemployed.  As  a  result 
of  their  early  efforts  we  now  have  such  institutions  as  the  Phila- 
delphia Vacant  Lots  Cultivation  Association,  which  helps  hun- 
dreds of  poor  families  to  better  their  own  circumstances,  and 
the  Cleveland  Home  Gardening  Association,  which  annually  sells 
over  700.000  packets  of  flower  and  vegetable  seed  to  school  chil- 
dren at  the  price  of  one  cent  per  packet. 

The  pioneer  in  school  gardens  in  America  is  Mrs.  Henry 
(Fannie  G.)  Parsons.  Director  of  The  First  Children's  School 
Farm  in  New  York  City  and  President  of  the  International  Chil- 
dren ?s  School  Farm  League  (4).  If  every  teacher  in  California 
were  willing  to  overcome  difficulties  only  a  fraction  as  great  as 
those  surmounted  by  Mrs.  Parsons  in  her  determination  to  see 
"children  in  their  natural  environment,  in  close  touch  with  na- 
ture and  allowed  an  opportunity  to  develop  their  own  individu- 
ality," there  would  be  less  need  for  exhortation. 

The  early  and  successful  efforts  of  certain  schools  and  insti- 
tutions have  had  their  share  of  influence.  Such  are  Hemen- 
way's  Junior  Horticulturist's  School  at  Hartford,  Conn.,  the 
Fairview  gardens  for  poor  children  at  Yonkers.  X.  Y..  the  Whit- 
tier  garden  at  the  Hampton  Institute.  Hampton.  Ya..  and  the 
County  schools  of  Winnebago  Co..  Illinois.  But  it  was  not  until 
the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  and  certain  of  the 
state  experiment  stations  became  actively  interested  in  elemen- 
tary education  in  agriculture  that  the  full  importance  and  un- 
limited possibilities  of  school  gardens  came  to  be  realized  in  this 
country.  The  ultimate  aim  of  these  institutions  is  the  elevation 
of  the  agricultural  community,  which  means,  generally  speaking, 
one-third  of  the  American  people.  They  aim  to  make  the  farmer 
more  efficient  and  so  to  increase  his  annual  income.  That  public 
school  teachers  may  aid  in  bringing  about  such  a  far-reaching 
result  as  this,  may  be  a  new  idea  to  some  who  read  this  circular, 
but  it  is  quite  true.  Look,  for  example,  at  what  the  MacDonald 
School  Gardens  have  done  for  the  province  of  Ontario,  Canada. 
Professor  B.  M.  Davis  says:  "The  Canadian  children  under- 
took to  improve  the  seed  of  wheat  and  oats  and  in  three  years  the 


10 


> 


11 

gain  I  in  production  was  27  per  cent,  for  wheat  and  28  per  cent. 
for  oats.  It  is  not  exaggeration  to  say  the  children  forced  their 
fathers  to  begin  systematic  effort  to  improve  their  seed." 

The  lively  interest  of  federal  and  state  authorities  in  this 
phase  of  agricultural  education  is  evidenced  by  recent  publica- 
tions (5)  (6)  (7).  The  general  consensus  of  opinion  of  these 
and  other  writers  is  that  some  sort  of  a  beginning  in  agricultural 
instruction  should  be  made  in  every  rural  school.  The  use  of  a 
text  in  grammar  grades  as  compelled  by  law  in  certain  states 
may  be  the  surest  way  to  begin.  But  the  introduction  of  good 
garden  work  in  connection  with  nature-study  in  the  primary 
grades  as  a  foundation  and  the  emphasis  of  home  and  school 
experimental  gardening  for  the  older  pupils  along  with  their 
school  room  study  of  agriculture  has  bren  found  to  give  infin- 
itely richer  results. 

What  Teachers  Have  Done. 

Some  California  teachers,  who  conduct  garden  work  in  their 
schools,  have  replied  to  inquiries  made  by  this  experiment  station 
and  all.  from  whom  reports  have  been  received,  speak  favorably 
of  the  value  of  the  school  garden.  Portions  of  a  letter  from 
Miss  Zilda  M.  Rogers,  a  teacher  in  Ventura,  are  given  below  and 
figure  4  illustrates  the  garden  described. 

"Our  garden  work  is  yet  very  young.  This  is  really  the  first 
year  it  has  been  carried  on  systematically  at  all.  Our  grounds 
are  very  small,  far  too  small,  for  so  many  children,  but  small 
as  they  are  the  work  has  paid  tenfold  for  every  hour  spent  upon 
it.  Last  fall  we  raised  a  crop  of  vegetables  and  have  replanted 
as  the  vegetables  have  been  removed  since.  Our  fall  crop  was 
only  fair.  This  spring  the  vegetables  are  choice.  I  have  allowed 
the  children  to  plant  whatever  they  wished  providing  the  plants 
were  not  too  large  for  the  space  allowed.  Some  of  the  pupils 
have  harvested  six  or  seven  crops  of  radishes  and  lettuce  this 
school  year.  Around  the  border  of  the  garden  we  have  vines 
planted.    In  another  year  there  will  be  no  ugly  fence  showing. 

"  \Vith  the  exception  of  a  boy  and  a  girl  the  children  will 
gladly  leave  their  play  t<:>  work  in  'our  garden.'  Some  of  them 
devote  every  recess  to  their  gardens,  not  always  working  but 
watching  others  plant  seed  or  just  admiring  their  plants.  \Yith 
the  love  of  the  school  garden  has  grown  the  desire  for  a  home 
garden  and  some  of  their  plots  at  home  are  very  good.     Each 


12 


one  would  like  to  have  his  garden  the  best  in  town.  Since  com- 
mencing the  garden  work  the  children  have  become  better  com- 
panions and  friends.  They  have  learned  to  respect  other  peo- 
ple's property  and  to  feel  that  there  is  a  right  way  of  doing 
everything.  The  children  and  I  have  become  closer  friends  than 
we  ever  could  have  in  any  other  work.  It  is  our  garden.  We  try 
to  carry  that  spirit  into  our  schoolroom. 


Fig.  4. — A  Ventura  school  garden,  19U7. 


"From  this  year's  experience  I  should  say  a  school  loses  a 
golden  opportunity  to  help  the  child  when  it  does  not  make  an 
effort  to  have  a  school  garden. ' ' 

It  would  be  interesting  to  hear  from  every  teacher  in  the 
state  who  has  introduced  gardening  into  the  school  and  to  know 
of  the  difficulties,  failures  and  successes.  However,  the  expres- 
sions in  the  letter  just  quoted  should  be  sufficient  to  convince  the 
most  skeptical  that  a  school  garden  is  worth  having. 

We  have  attempted  to  show  by  means  of  illustrations  what 
has  been  accomplished  in  a  few  California  schools.  In  figure  7 
is  shown  the  garden    at    the    Clearwater  school    (Los  Angeles 


13 

County)  in  1907,  Mr.  Clarence  Dickison,  principal.  Figures  8 
and  10  show  two  views  of  the  gardens  of  the  Redlands  school 
children  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  C.  T.  Wright.  Figure  3 
shows  the  vegetable  garden  of  the  Washington  school,  Berkeley, 
Mr.  John  A.  Imrie,  principal.  This  is  located  on  a  vacant  lot 
near  the  school  where  water  is  obtained  free.  Figure  2  shows 
the  success  achieved  by  the  pupils  of  the  same  school  in  beauti- 
fying the  grounds.  The  clover  lawn  and  the  mixed  border  of 
sunflowers,  cosmos,  marigolds  and  pansies  were  all  grown  by  the 
older  pupils.  The  photograph  shows  a  second  grade  nature- 
study  class  enjoying  an  outdoor  lesson.  Strenuous  efforts  on  the 
part  of  the  boys  were  necessary  in  beginning  this  improvement. 
The  soil  had  to  be  loosened  with  picks  first,  then  soaked  and 
forked  over  and  finally  leveled  for  seeding. 

In  figure  5  are  shown  the  gardens  of  the  third,  fourth,  and 
fifth  grades  of  the  West  Vernon  Avenue  school,  Los  Angeles  City, 
Miss  Josephine  Bont,  principal.  Miss  Bont  writes  as  follows: 
"The  pupils  did  all  of  the  preparatory  work  for  their  gardens, 
clearing  a  weed-covered  lot,  laying  out  the  gardens,  and  digging 
them.  They  were  successful  and  the  children  and  parents  were 
delighted  with  the  results.  Since  we  began  our  school  gardens 
in  these  grades  I  find  the  other  children  anxious  to  have  them." 

The  garden  work  of  the  Los  Angeles  Normal  School  is  illus- 
trated in  figures  1,  9,  11,  12,  13,  14,  the  photographs  being  fur- 
nished by  Mr.  Clayton  F.  Palmer,  Instructor  in  Agricultural 
Nature- Study  in  that  institution.  The  gardens  conducted  at  the 
San  Diego  Normal  School  in  1907  are  shown  in  figure  6.  It  was 
hoped  that  the  other  normal  schools  might  be  represented  in  this 
way,  especially  the  school  at  Chico,  where  Mr.  C.  A.  Stebbins 
has  developed  the  garden  work  on  original  lines.  Mr.  Stebbins 
has  published  some  excellent  discussions  and  directions  for  the 
use  of  the  student  teachers.  But  very  little  of  this  material  is 
available  for  general  distribution  as  yet.  Perhaps  the  most  novel 
phase  of  garden  work  introduced  into  the  Chico  normal  training 
school  is  the  "school  bank."  As  latest  reports  indicate  that  this 
device  has  proved  to  be  of  great  value,  we  give  below  Mr.  Steb- 
bin's  original  plan  as  published  in  a  pamphlet,  of  which  the  first 
edition  is  exhausted. 

"A  school  garden,  if  well  planned,  carries  the  life  of  the  com- 
munity. Any  business,  as  it  develops  and  becomes  more  complex, 
calls  for  new  methods,  so  the   increasing  business  side  of  the 


14 


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15 

gardens  and  the  demand  for  more  practicability  in  school  work 
are  calling  for  a  school  bank.  Any  available  space,  convenient 
to  the  pupils,  should  be  fitted  off  with  desks,  railings,  etc.,  to 
make  the  surroundings  banklike.  The  officers  of  the  bank  should 
be  the  regular  officers  chosen  from  the  school  body,  with  a  teacher 
as  general  supervisor. 

"The  policy  of  the  bank  should  be  to  lease  the  individual 
gardens  for  a  nominal  sum,  to  sell  seeds,  to  furnish  tools  at  a 
low  rental,  to  loan  money  to  be  expended  in  school  work,  to  pay 
interest  on  deposits,  to  buy  seed  grown  by  the  pupils,  to  purchase 
plants  from  the  children,  etc.  Not  only  should  the  business  life 
of  the  gardens  be  fastened  to  the  bank,  but  it  should  carry  the 
practical  side  of  the  other  school  subjects,  particularly  that  of 
arithmetic.  To  know  the  vital  part  of  a  principle,  we  should  be 
a  part  of  its  expression  and  feel  the  reaction.  To  understand 
interest  fully,  we  must  borrow  or  loan  money  or  be  connected  in 
some  way  with  interest  at  work.  The  bank  should  make  each 
pupil  an  acting  part  of  each  business  transaction,  indicated  by 
the  study  of  arithmetic.  The  acceptance,  endorsement,  presenta- 
tion, and  receipt  of  money,  processes  connected  with  one  check, 
would  short  cut  the  way  through  the  days  of  artificial  processes 
now  in  use  and  never  applied. 

"The  business  life  of  a  community  centers  about  the  public 
source  of  money.  Thus  the  school  bank  should  inoculate  the 
children  with  the  principles  that  would  direct  their  future  con- 
duct. With  the  gardens  to  furnish  the  money,  with  the  bank 
to  use  it,  and  with  arithmetic  to  direct  the  several  processes,  we 
would  have  a  miniature  community  life. ' ' 

Mr.  Stebbins  reports  that  a  year's  trial  of  the  school  bank 
has  clearly  demonstrated  its  great  value.  The  bank  leased  the 
gardens  to  the  children.  The  children  marketed  their  produce 
and  paid  their  rent.  About  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  has 
been  handled  by  the  bank  during  the  past  year. 

What  Teachers  Can  Do. 

General. 

Any  teacher,  who  is  willing  to  try,  can  make  a  beginning  in 

school   gardening.     A  little   reading  of  the  publications  to  be 

obtained  free  or  at  nominal  cost,  a  little  careful  planning  and 

judicious  leading  of  the  children,  and  almost  any  difficulties  can 


16 


be  overcome.  In  schools  of  more  than  one  teacher  it  will  be 
necessary  to  have  the  consent  and  co-operation  of  your  principal 
in  order  to  secure  location,  water,  and  tools.  As  regards  the  two 
latter  requisites,  you  will  be  surprised  to  find  how  well  the  chil- 
dren can  help  you  out  of  difficulties  when  called  upon.  The  boys 
and  girls  in  the  first  school  garden  in  New  York  City  had  noth- 
ing but  clam  shells  with  which  to  dig  but  the  fame  of  that  garden 


Fig.  6. — Gardens  at  the  San  Diego  State  Normal  School  in  1907, 


has  spread  throughout  the  world.  The  use  of  watering  pots  or 
even  pails  or  cans  with  which  the  soil  can  be  soaked  is  to  be 
recommended  above  sprinkling  with  a  hose  (although  the  seed 
bed  must  be  sprinkled  to  keep  shallow  planted  seeds  from  drying 
out).  Such  watering  can  then  be  followed  by  proper  surface 
tillage  and  the  loss  of  water  by  evaporation  reduced  to  a  mini- 
mum. This  is  a  fundamental  principle  in  California  agriculture. 
It  may  even  be  necessary  for  some  schools  to  practice  "dry 
farming"  (10).  But,  in  demonstrating  the  practicability  of  this 
system  of  agriculture,  you  may  render  an  inestimable  service  to 


17 

the  community.  Do  not  strive  for  artistic  effects  in  the  garden 
itself.  Evidence  of  intelligent  care  and  of  orderliness  is  of  most 
importance. 

A  school  site  on  top  of  a  rocky  hill  with  no  well  may  seem  a 
rather  forbidding  prospect  for  school  garden  work.  But  even 
here  much  may  be  accomplished  in  improvement  of  grounds  by 
planting  varieties  of  Eucalyptus  (11),  Bottle-brush  and  Cypress, 
the  Nut  Pine  (Pinus  monophylla)  and  other  native  trees,  shrubs 
and  perennial  herbs.  Secure  seeds  from  your  own  vicinity  with 
the  pupils'  help,  from  any  California  seedsman  (12a),  or  from 
the  experiment  station  at  Berkeley.  Distribute  seed  among  the 
pupils  giving  directions  for  propagation  and  a  year  later  make  a 
special  effort  to  get  the  strongest  specimens  established  on  the 
school  site  during  the  rainy  season.  If  funds  are  available,  one- 
year-old  plants  can  be  purchased  and  set  out  the  same  year  (12). 
The  less  opportunity  there  is  for  gardening  at  the  school,  the 
more  stress  should  be  laid  upon  competitive  and  experimental 
home  gardening.  Holding  an  annual  exhibition  and  giving  prizes 
will  furnish  an  incentive  to  earnest  effort. 

Experimental  work  of  a  very  definite  nature  and  with  a  fair 
chance  of  securing  distinct  results  has  proved  the  most  successful 
of  any  garden  work  for  grammar  grade  and  high  school  pupils 
in  other  states.  In  various  parts  of  the  corn  belt  of  the  middle 
west  the  boys'  experimental  clubs  have  been  carrying  on  work  in 
corn  improvement  for  several  years  and  many  striking  and  prof- 
itable results  have  been  secured.  To  quote  from  a  committee 
report  to  the  National  Council  of  Education,  July,  1905  (13)  : 

"It  is  in  such  ways  as  these  that  the  enterprising  county 
superintendent  may  stand  as  a  middle-man  between  the  experi- 
ment station  and  the  children  on  the  farm.  In  Cook  County 
(Chicago)  one  of  the  assistant  county  superintendents,  Charles 
W.  Farr,  during  the  month  of  April,  1905,  held  a  series  of  "corn 
meetings, ' '  the  announced  purpose  of  which  was  to  consider  with 
the  schools  of  an  entire  township,  and  the  parents  of  the  chil- 
dren: (1)  The  growth  and  fertilization  of  corn,  emphasizing 
the  possibility  of  breeding  it  with  the  same  degree  of  care  with 
which  animals  are  bred;  (2)  to  study  thoroughbred  ears  of  corn 
furnished  for  the  purpose  by  professional  corn  breeders;  (3)  to 
consider  samples  of  corn  furnished  by  local  farmers  with  refer- 
ence to  the  selection  of  seed;  (4)  to  encourage  the  boys  to  send 
for  seed  corn  and  enter  the  annual  contest;  and  (5)  by  means 


18 

of  samples  to  set  forth  clearly  the  printed  matter  offered  to  the 
farmers  by  the  experiment  station.  These  meetings  were  well 
attended  by  old  and  young,  and  the  most  enthusiastic  interest 
was  awakened. 

"All  this  means  more  and  better  corn,  of  course.  But  it 
means  much  more.  The  attitude  toward  farm  labor — all  labor — 
is  changed.  The  combination  of  intelligence  with  manual  labor 
arouses  a  quality  of  interest  which  gives  farming  as  an  occupa- 
tion, an  even  chance  with  other  occupations  to  appeal  to  boyish 
imagination  at  the  time  when  he  is  beginning  to  think  about  his 
life  work.  Superintendent  Farr  is  the  author  of  a  formula 
which  tells  the  whole  story :  'Seed  +  Soil  -f-  Moisture  +  Heat  + 
Boy  —  Corn/ 

"The  plan  of  organization  and  work  of  boys'  experiment 
clubs  and  girls'  home-culture  clubs  in  Illinois,  as  described,  has 
been  adopted  in  a  few  localities  in  Ohio,  Wisconsin,  and  Texas 
and  possibly  in  other  states. 

"The  systematic  study  of  the  cultivation,  breeding  and  judg- 
ing of  corn  carried  on  by  the  boys  in  Illinois,  through  definitely 
organized  effort,  has  made  available  for  them  and  their  fathers 
the  results  of  the  scientific  investigation  of  this  cereal,  carried 
on  by  experts  in  the  agricultural  college  of  the  state,  and  will 
add  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  to  the  value  of  the  yearly 
corn  crop  in  Illinois. 

"All  such  work  properly  directed  and  organized  is  a  move 
in  the  direction  of  awakening  new  interest  and  a  practical  intel- 
ligence in  the  affairs  of  the  home  and  the  farm.  It  reaches  the 
parents  and  affects  them  in  useful  ways.  Out  of  these  experi- 
ments and  activities  will  come  an  organized  body  of  knowledge 
in  form  available  for  the  teacher  and  for  use  in  the  schools  of 
the  country. 

"Such  clubs  may  be  organized  in  every  state  in  the  Union 
for  specific  work  on  the  particular  products  of  the  locality,  pro- 
vided there  are  men  and  women  in  these  states  who  will  make 
a  study  of  local  needs  and  inaugurate  lines  of  effort,  which  will 
appeal  to  the  interests  of  the  community  under  definite  practical 
plans  of  organization." 

When  Ave  consider  the  unlimited  possibilities,  which  are  af- 
forded for  the  sort  of  work  described  above  by  the  varied  soils, 
climatic  conditions  and  products  of  our  great  state,  it  is  difficult 
to  conceive  how  any  educator,  whose  privilege  it  may  be  to  cham- 


19 

pion  this  cause,  can  fail  to  make  an  earnest  effort  to  establish 
the  home  experimental  work  among  the  school  children  of  Cali- 
fornia. In  order  that  the  greatest  good  may  result  to  the  com- 
munity at  large,  it  is  necessary  that  there  be  some  central  direct- 
ing agency.  The  college  of  agriculture  and  state  experiment 
station,  from  which  this  circular  is  issued,  is  prepared  to  assume 
this  office.  The  division  of  agricultural  education  will  co-operate 
with  any  one  interested  in  the  promotion  of  agricultural  teaching 
in  the  schools.  It  is  our  aim  to  assist  directors,  superintendents 
and  teachers  in  maintaining  agricultural  instruction.  Certainly 
one  of  the  most  effective  methods  of  introducing  it,  is  by  means 
of  boys'  and  girls'  clubs  (15a). 

One  phase  of  club  work  in  which  pupils  in  town  and  city 
schools  should  be  as  much  interested  as  those  who  live  in  the 
country  is  the  tree  growing  movement.  This  worthy  cause  is 
represented  by  the  Federation  of  Tree  Growing  Clubs  of  Amer- 
ica, H.  A.  Greene,  President,  Monterey,  California.  Their  cir- 
cular of  information  (19)  is  full  of  helpful  suggestions  for  any 
one  who  wishes  to  undertake  the  organization  of  such  work. 
Moreover,  "the  federation  will  furnish  tree  seeds  free  of  cost, 

except  postage,  ,  to  all  good  people  willing  to 

assist  in  the  great  tree  growing  movement. ' ' 

Small  Rural  and  Special  Ungraded  Schools. 

In  smaller  rural  schools,  for  the  first  year  or  two  at  least,  the 
garden  may  be  planned  mostly  for  the  children  in  grammar 
grades — not  to  exclude  the  younger  ones  in  case  it  is  practical  to 
accommodate  them  at  the  outset — but  to  emphasize  the  garden 
as  a  place  in  which  the  older  children  can  carry  on  experimental 
work  adapted  to  local  climatic  and  soil  conditions.  Start  the 
garden  as  an  outdoor  laboratory,  choosing  some  particular  lines 
of  study  which  will  appeal  to  both  children  and  patrons.  A 
logical,  progressive  working-plan,  which  may  be  taken  up  by  a 
new  teacher  where  his  predecessor  left  off,  might  be  somewhat  as 
follows : 

First  year. — Lay  out  individual  plots  as  large  as  possible  for 
each  pupil  who  wishes  to  have  a  garden  and  provide  two  com- 
munity plots  in  which  all  shall  have  a  share.  Center  the  work 
in  individual  plots  on  plant  propagation  encouraging  the  pupils 
to  experiment  with  as  many  different  methods  as  possible.     But 


20 

plan  the  work  sufficientJy  so  as  to  be  sure  each  pupil  becomes 
familiar  with  propagation  by  seed,  bulblets  or  sets,  and  cuttings 
or  slips.  Familiarity  with  the  first  method  will  be  assured  if 
care  is  taken  to  plant  along  one  edge  of  a  community  plot  a  row 
of  peach,  plum,  apricot,  almond,  walnut,  apple,  pear,  or  quince 
seeds,  which  should  produce  seedling  trees  that  may  be  used  a 
year  later  for  exceedingly  interesting  lessons  in  budding  and 
grafting.     For  propagation  by  bulblets,  onion  sets  may  be  used 


Fig.  7. — Gardens  at  the  Clearwater  school,  Los  Angeles  County  in  1907. 

or  young  freesia  or  gladiolus  bulbs,  or  better  still  these  sets  may 
be  grown  from  seed  the  first  year  and  then  used  by  each  pupil 
in  his  home  garden  the  following  year.  In  the  same  way  plants 
propagated  from  cuttings  like  the  rose,  geranium,  fuchsia,  coleus, 
carnation  and  a  host  of  others  may  be  used  for  ornamenting  the 
school  or  home  grounds.  If  the  boys  are  more  interested  in  crop 
plants  let  them  root  cuttings  of  grape,  raspberry  or  blackberry, 
heeling  them  in  the  fall  in  a  shady  place  and  setting  out  the  next 
spring.  Of  Irish  potato  make  cuttings  of  the  tubers  leaving 
about  two  eyes  in  each  piece.     In  locations  having  warm  sandy 


21 

soil  sweet  potatoes  may  be  propagated  by  covering  with  sand 
and  keeping  moist  until  sprouts  appear,  then  removing  the 
sprouts  and  setting  out.  Here  also  peanuts  are  easily  grown 
from  seed.  In  places  where  citrus  fruits  or  the  olive  are  grown, 
an  interesting  experiment  will  be  to  try  cuttings  of  the  various 
varieties  and  compare  the  root  systems  produced  with  those  of 
seedlings  of  the  same  variety.  These  are  only  a  few  suggestions 
of  the  many  things  that  may  be  done  in  connection  with  plant 
propagation. 

In  one  community  plot  make  experiments  with  commercial 
fertilizers  on  various  crop  plants  grown  in  the  vicinity.  Leave 
small  check  plots  that  can  be  watered  separately  and  give  these 
no  fertilizer  whatever.  Use  varying  amounts  on  the  others  and 
-have  pupils  keep  records  of  experiments  and  results.  In  the 
other  community  plot  begin  a  collection  of  native  plants.  Too 
often  the  children  pass  them  by  without  appreciating  them.  If 
your  school  is  situated  particularly  unfavorably  for  the  purpose 
of  securing  many  interesting  plants,  make  excursions  for  them, 
correspond  and  exchange  with  other  teachers  or  with  parties 
who  have  native  seeds  and  bulbs  for  sale  (12a).  A  little  effort 
will  bring  many  acquisitions  and  much  valuable  nature-study 
material  will  be  secured  which  is  of  the  greatest  interest  to  all 
because  it  is  of  our  native  flora.  In  any  part  of  this  plan  that 
may  be  attempted  during  the  first  year  the  underlying  principles 
of  plant  production,  as  set  forth  in  your  elementary  text  on 
agriculture,  should  be  emphasized,  and  the  pupils  directed  to 
put  into  practice  the  knowledge  derived  from  the  text. 

Second  year. — Center  the  work  in  individual  plots  on  experi- 
mental plant  improvement  (15b).  Let  the  boys  choose  some 
common  farm  crop  or  vegetable  that  is  grown  at  their  homes. 
If  possible,  have  them  select  their  seed  from  plants  on  the  farm, 
giving  attention  to  size,  fruitfulness,  health,  and  hardiness. 
Emphasize  the  necessity  of  making  conditions  in  the  individual 
plots  as  favorable  as  possible  to  the  highest  degree  of  vigor  in 
the  particular  plant  to  be  raised.  This  will  necessitate  careful 
observation  and  thought  on  the  part  of  each  pupil.  The  use 
of  fertilizers  may  be  tried.  As  the  crop  develops,  have  them 
make  a  study  of  each  individual  plant,  marking  those  that  seem 
likely  to  be  of  value  and  discarding  those  that  are  of  low  value 
for  any  reason.  Keep  the  strongest  plants  and  eventually  save 
the  seed  only  from  the  one  or  two  very  best  plants.     This  seed 


22 

can  be  planted,  all  or  in  part,  at  home  the  following  year,  and 
the  process  of  selection  repeated.  The  girls,  in  their  individual 
plots,  may  carry  on  the  same  kind  of  work  with  either  vegetables 
or  flowers.  If  possible,  encourage  them  to  experiment  with 
some  native  flower  the  seed  of  which  can  be  obtained  in  your 
vicinity.  With  this  work  in  mind  for  the  coming  year,  the 
pupils  can  be  led  to  collect  seed  during  the  present  year,  fol- 
lowing the  same  care  in  selection  as  the  boys  practice  among 
the  farm  crops.  The  principles  of  intensive  cultivation  and 
selection  will  be  the  same. 

In  the  community  plots  add  to  the  native  plant  collection 
and  change  the  former  fertilizer  plot  into  a  model  kitchen  gar- 
den, introducing  varieties  of  vegetables  new  or  little  known  in 
the  district. 

Third  year. — Individual  plots.  Continue  the  work  of  plant 
improvement,  or,  if  this  has  been  transferred  entirely  to  the 
homes,  turn  the  plots  over  to  younger  pupils. 

Community  plots  as  before,  or  have  a  model  flower  garden 
in  one  of  them. 

Some  teachers  may  find  themselves  at  a  loss  to  know  what 
crop  plants  to  recommend  to  the  pupils  for  their  experimental 
plant  improvement  work.  In  this  connection  we  give  the  fol- 
lowing classified  list  of  economic  plants,  most  of  which  were 
suggested  by  reviewing  the  manuscript  of  a  new  text  in  ele- 
mentary agriculture  by  Professors  Hilgard  and  Osterhout  of 
the  University  of  California.  This  work  is  now  in  an  advanced 
stage  of  preparation,  and  the  teachers,  besides  being  ready  to 
use  this  help  when  it  does  appear,  may  well  plan  to  make  their 
garden  work  correlative  and  supplementary  to  it.  Therefore, 
the  list  is  given  primarily  for  this  reason,  but  teachers  who  de- 
sire a  guide  in  selecting  varieties  for  model  or  demonstration 
plots  will  also  find  suggestions  in  this  classification.  For  ex- 
ample, a  collection  of  the  varieties  of  the  "cabbage  group"  of 
vegetables  would  excite  interest  and  impart  useful  knowledge. 

List  of  Crop  Plants  Suitable  for  Experimental  Plant  Improve- 
ment and  Sclwol  Garden  Work. 

I.  Field  Crops. 

1.  Cereals.     Named  varieties,   such  as  those  mentioned  in  Hilgard  and 
Osterhout  and  California   station  bulletin  No.   185. 


23 

2.  Non-saccharine  Sorghums.  Broom-corn,  kafir  (kafir  "corn"),  and 
durra   (Egyptian  and  Jerusalem  "corn"  and  milo  "maize"). 

3.  Sweet  Sorghum.     Suitable  for  northwestern  California. 

4.  Beans  and  Peas.  Lima  bean,  white  navy  bean,  frijoles,  broad  beans, 
cowpeas,  peanuts,  garden  peas. 

5.  Grasses.  For  schools  in  the  region  of  cattle  ranges,  a  collection  of 
the  grasses  described  in   Hilgard  and  Osterhout. 

6.  Cover  Crops  or  Green  Manures.  Hairy  vetch,  Canadian  field  pea, 
lupins  including  native  varieties,  Oregon  winter  vetch. 

7.  Boot  crops.  Sugar-beet,  field  beets,  turnips,  carrots,  Irish  potato, 
sweet  potato. 

8.  Miscellaneous    crops. 

(a)  Fiber  plants.     Cotton,  flax,  hemp,  agave,  mulberry   tree. 

(b)  Honey  plants.     Native  and  introduced. 

(c)  Asparagus,    celery,   hops,   rhubarb,    and    other   crops   grown   in 

certain  districts  of  the  State. 

II.  Vegetables. 

1.  Foots  and  Bidbs.  Carrot,  parsnip,  salsify,  onion,  chive,  leek,  garlic, 
celeriac. 

2.  Leaf  Vegetables.  Varieties  of  lettuce,  spinach,  chard,  corn  salad, 
Chinese  mustard,  the  "cabbage  group",  including  cauliflower,  broccoli, 
brussels   sprouts,   kohlrabi,   collards,   kale   or  borecole. 

3.  Stem  Vegetables.  Celery  and  asparagus,  both  good  for  experimental 
work  in  control  of  plant  diseases. 

4.  Fruit  Vegetables  (not  sweet),  (a)  tomato,  eggplant,  peppers  large 
and  small;    (b)   encumbers,  pumpkins,  squashes. 

III.  Sweet  Garden  Fruits. 

1.  ' '  Small  Fruits. ' '  Strawberry,  raspberry,  blackberry,  loganberry, 
gooseberry,  currant. 

2.  Watermelon,   muskmelon,   including   the   "casaba"    or   winter   melon. 

3.  Grapes,  (a)  For  schoolyard  arbor;  (b)  for  practice  in  grafting  on 
resistant  roots  [see  circular  No.  26  and  bulletins  No.  180  and  197  of  this 
experiment  station] ;  (c)  for  propagation  from  seed  as  a  phase  of  plant 
improvement. 


Large  Rural,  Town,  and  City  Schools. 

Gardening  should  be  planned  as  a  part  of  nature-study,  so 
as  to  supplement  its  other  phases,  and  to  accompany  the  study 
of  botany  and  horticulture  in  high  schools.  It  may  be  correlated 
with  oral  and  written  expression,  manual  training,  geography, 
history,  arithmetic,  and  bookkeeping  (2).  In  smaller  graded 
schools  having  two  or  three  grades  in  a  room,  it  is  advisable  to 
arrange  the  nature-study  in  groups  of  grades  somewhat  as  fol- 
lows :    Group  I,  grades  1  and  2 ;  Group  II,  grades  3  to  5 ;  Group 


24 


I 

06 

OSj 


25 


III,  grades  6  to  8.  Here  the  work  of  each  group  may  be  pro- 
gressive from  year  to  year,  beginning  with  that  suggested  below 
for  the  lowest  grade  in  the  group  and  proceeding  to  that  of  the 
highest.  The  following  general  outline,  adapted  from  Crosby's 
report,  will  suggest  the  possible  coordination  between  the  garden 
phase  and  the  other  phases  of  nature-study.  For  details  and 
further  references  consult  Wood  (8),  Crosby  (6),  and  Miller  & 
Babcock  (9),  as  well  as  your  course  of  study  and  standard  works 
on  nature-study  and  elementary  agriculture. 


Outline  of  Nature-Study  by  Groups. 
Group  I,  Grades  1  and  2. 


Character  of  Instruction. 

Observation,  identification,  oral 
description;  for  general  knowledge 
of  immediate  environment :  the 
weather  (18),  wild  and  cultivated 
plants  and  trees,  insects,  earth- 
worm, wild  and  domestic  animals, 
common  birds  and  reptiles;  seeds, 
how  they  sprout;  seed  distribution; 
plants,  how  the  grow;  bulbs  grown 
in  water. 


Garden  Phase. 

School  garden,  individual  plots. 
Plant  and  grow  common,  hardy, 
large-seeded  vegetables,  such  as 
radishes,  dwarf  peas,  beets,  onions 
from  sets,  and  one  or  two  quick- 
growing  flowers,  such  as  dwarf  na- 
sturtiums, dwarf  morning  glory, 
f our-o  'clocks.  Demonstration  les- 
sons in  planting  and  cultivating 
given  by  teacher. 


Group  II,  Grades  3  to  5. 


Character  of  Instruction. 

Observation  and  comparison, 
practice  in  identification,  oral  and 
written  description.  Add  to  gen- 
eral knowledge  and  specialize  in 
correlation  with  home  geography. 
Observe  wild  and  cultivated  plants 
and  trees,  "dry-weather"  plants, 
pond  plants,  economic  plants  and 
their  uses;  mammals,  birds,  fish, 
the  mosquito  and  other  economic 
insects;  physical  nature-study  (18). 
Begin  organization  of  school  or 
class  ' '  Xature-study  clubs ' ',  in  the 
fifth  grade  making  a  "club  meet- 
ing' '  of  the  nature-study  period. 
Have  reports  on  the  experiments 
in  plant  propagation  in  home  and 
school  gardens,  and  any  other 
nature-study   topics. 


Garden  Phase. 

School  garden,  individual  plots, 
and  home  garden. 

(a)  Plant  and  grow  vegetables 
and  flowers  requiring  more  skill 
than  those  recommended  for  Group 
I.  (6)  Plant  and  grow  typical 
crop  plants  of  the  region,  giving 
some  attention  to  varieties,  har- 
vesting, and  methods  of  handling 
raw  materials,  (c)  Begin  experi- 
mental study  of  plant  propagation 
in  the  fifth  grade  [see  outline  for 
small  schools],  (d)  Encourage  the 
collection  of  native  plants  and 
shrubs  for  the  school  garden  (com- 
munity plot)  or  home  gardens. 
This  phase  deserves  more  atten- 
tion. Do  not  hesitate  because  you 
do  not  know  botanical  names.  Get 
acquainted  with  the  plants  and 
use  common  names. 


26 


Group  III,  Grades  6  to  8. 


Character  of  Instruction. 

Observation,  comparison,  judg- 
ment. Study  objects,  as  above, 
within  and  beyond  horizon  of  chil- 
dren's observation;  introduce  bul- 
letins, text-books,  and  reference- 
books  as  sources  of  information, 
particularly  as  follows: 

For  the  sixth  grade,  U.  S.  D.  A. 
bulletins  and  circulars  on  plant 
propagation,  plant  improvement, 
and  forestry    (20). 

For  the  seventh  grade,  texts  and 
bulletins  on  agriculture  and  hor- 
ticulture   (20). 

For  the  eighth  grade,  texts,  bul- 
letins, and  laboratory  work  on  hu- 
man physiology,  hygiene  and  foods. 

Emphasize  outdoor  and  indoor 
experimental  work  in  sixth  and  sev- 
enth grades    (16). 

The  comparative  study  of  root 
systems  of  crop  plants  may  be 
made  a  valuable  indoor  adjunct  of 
the  outdoor  work  in  these  grades. 

Note. — It  will  be  recognized 
that  the  work  suggested  for  gram- 
mar grades  is  not  all  observational 
study.  But  it  is  intended  that 
nature-study  ideals  shall  obtain 
and  that  the  nature-study  method 
shall  be  used  as  far  as  practicable. 
The  value  of  experimental  work, 
doing,  seeing,  and  inferring  by 
the  pupils  themselves,  cannot  be 
overemphasized,  providing  the 
course  of  experiments  is  well 
planned  and  consistently  carried 
out. 


Garden  Phase. 

School    and    home    gardens. 

Sixth  Grade:  (a)  Continue  study 
of  plant  propagation,  both  in  in- 
dividual plots  and  the  community 
nursery,  where  seedlings  and  cut- 
tings for  budding  and  grafting 
should  have  been  started  the  pre- 
vious year,  (b)  Encourage  pupils 
to  experiment  at  home  and  to  make 
observations  and  reports  in  con- 
nection with  their  indoor  study  or 
club  meetings.  Conduct  excur- 
sions, (c)  Eeserve  ' '  problem  plots ' ' 
for  the  purpose  of  settling  dis- 
puted questions  or  giving  demon- 
•  strations.  Or  (d)  crop  improve- 
ment through  seed  selection  may 
be  the  chief  line  of  study  for  the 
year  with  plant  propagation  and 
forestry  subordinate. 

Seventh  Grade:  (a)  Application 
of  indoor  experimental  study  in 
soils  and  plant  growth  to  prob- 
lems in  irrigation,  cultivation,  fer- 
tilizing, crop  rotation,  seed  and 
soil  inoculation,  (b)  Continue  or 
begin  work  in  crop  improvement 
or  amelioration  of  some  wild  plant. 
[See  outline  for  small  schools.] 
(c)  Encourage  pupils  to  grow  crops 
and  domestic  animals  at  home, 
keeping  account  of  labor,  fertiliz- 
ers, feed,  gross  and  net  returns. 

Eighth  Grade :  Experimental 
work  of  Seventh  Grade  continued. 
If  the  study  of  crop  or  plant  im- 
provement has  been  successfully  in- 
troduced, pupils  of  this  grade  will 
wish  to  continue  their  experiments 
at  home. 


The  question  of  what,  when,  and  how  to  plant  are,  of  course, 
matters  of  paramount  importance  to  the  individual  teacher. 
Tt  is  scarcely  •within  the  scope  of  this  circular  to  furnish  such 
detailed  information  in  quantity  sufficient  to  meet  the  need  of 
every  locality  in  California.  The  necessary  directions  for  grow- 
ing any  particular  crop  can  usually  be  obtained  from  the  dealer 
or  grower  who  furnishes  the  seeds  or  plants.  Reference  works 
such  as  encyclopedias  of  horticulture  and  books  on  gardening 
will  be  useful  for  this  purpose.  The  experience  of  farmers  and 
gardeners  of  the  vicinity  will  usually  be  of  value.     If  special 


27 


need  should  arise,  letters  of  inquiry  may  be  addressed  to  the  mem- 
bers of  the  experiment  station  staff.  Some  definite  suggestions 
will  be  found  in  the  discussion  of  work  for  small  schools  and 
the  instructions  for  teachers.  In  addition  to  these,  the  follow- 
ing planting  guide,  which  is  adapted  from  the  "Plant  Calendar'' 
in  Davis'  Manual  (2)  should  be  of  some  assistance.  It  is  in- 
tended to  serve  as  a  general  guide  and  not  especially  for  any 
one  locality.     The  hyphen  is  equivalent  to  "to." 


Fig.  9. — Nora  de  Generes,  age  11,  and  her 
six-pound  beet,  May,  1908. 


Plants  that  Thrive  with  Comparatively  Large  Amounts  of  Water. 

Vegetables. 
Name.  Time  to  plant.  Bow  long  to  grow. 

Artichoke — Seeds,  Jan.-Feb.   (in  boxes)    1  year 

"        — Roots,  Nov.-Mar 1  year 

Asparagus — Seeds,  Feb. -Mar.   (in  beds)    2-3  years 

"  — Eoots,  March 9-12  months 

Beans   (string) — Feb. -Apr.  after  frost 2-3  months 

Beets — Aug.-Oct.,   Jan.-Apr 3-5   months 

Broccoli — Same  as  spring  or  winter  cabbage. 
Brussels  sprouts — Same  as  last. 

Cabbage — For  early  spring,  Sept. -Oct 3-7  months 

"       — For  summer  and  fall,  Feb. -Mar 3-4  months 

"       — For  winter,  June-August 4-5  months 


28 

Cauliflower — Same  as  spring  and  winter  cabbage. 

Carrot — Any  month  except  June  and  July 4-6  months 

Celery — Feb.-Apr.   (in  boxes)   6-8  months 

Celeriac — Same  as  celery. 

Chard — Same  as  beet. 

Chive   (Cive) — Same  as  onion;    sets  or  clumps. 

Corn  (sweet) — Mar.-June,  Aug.-Sept 2-3  months 

Collards — Same  as  summer  cabbage. 

Corn  salad — Aug.-Oct.,  Jan. -Apr 6-8  weeks 

Cucumber — Mar.-May  2  months 

Endive — Aug. -Apr 6-8    months 

Garlic — Nov.-Mar.,  sets  6-8  months 

Kale  (Borecole) — Aug.-May 4-6  months 

Kohlrabi — Aug.-Nov.,  Jan.-Apr • 4  months 

Leek — Sept.-May  6  months 

Lettuce — Aug.-May  4-6  weeks 

Okra  (Gumbo) — Mar.-May  2-3  months 

Onion — Seed,  Feb.-May,  Aug.-Nov 9-12  months 

"    —Sets,  Oet.-Apr 2-3  months 

Parsley — Aug.-May  2   months 

Parsnip — Aug.-Nov.,   Feb.-Apr 8-16    months 

Peas — Every  month  2-5  months 

Peppergrass  (Cress) — Aug.-May  4-6  weeks 

Potato,  Irish — Plants,  Feb. -May,  Aug.-Sept 2-4  months 

Potato,  Sweet — Plants,  Apr.-May  3-4  months 

Eadish — Every  month  1-2  months 

Eadish    (winter) — Aug.-Sept 4  months 

Ehubarb — Plants,   Nov.-Apr 1   year 

Salsify — Feb.-Apr 6-8  months 

Spinach — Every  month   6-10  weeks 

Sweet  Potato — Plants,  Apr. -June  4-6  months 

Tomato — Seeds,  Feb.-Apr.   3-5  months 

"       — Plants,   Mar.-May  3-5   months 

Turnips — Aug.-Nov.,  Feb.-Apr.  3  months 

Annual  Flowers. 

Name.  Time  to  plant.  How  long  to  grow. 

Aster — Jan.-Feb.   (boxes),  Mar.-Apr.,  Aug.-Oct 5-7  months 

Balloon  Vine — Mar.-Apr.,  after  frost Eapid  climber 

Balsam — Feb.-Mar 4  months 

Bean  (Scarlet  Eunner) — Apr.-May  2-3  months 

Calliopsis — Oct. -May   3-4  months 

Chrysanthemum — Feb.-Mar 3-5  months 

Clarkia — Sept.-Nov.,  Feb.-Mar.  4  months 

Collinsia — Sept.-Nov.,  Feb.-Mar 3  months 

Coreopsis — Sept.-Nov.   8-10  months 

Cosmos — Oct.- June  3-4  months 

Dianthus    (Pinks) — Sept. -Oct.    (beds)    3  months 

"  — Jan. -Mar.    (boxes)    3  months 

Gilliflower   (see  Stock). 

Godetia — Dec.-Feb.   .'. 4  months 

Gypsophila  muralis    (Baby's  Breath) — Jan.-Mar.   3-4  months 

Hyacinth — Bulbs,   Sept. -Jan Spring  flowering 

Japanese  Hop — Mar.-Apr Eapid  climber 

Larkspur — Sept.-Mar 3  months 

Lobelia   (dwarf) — Aug.-Oct.,  Mar.-May   (boxes)    3  months 

Marigold — Jan.-Mar 4    months 

Mignonette — Sept.-Mar 2-3    months 

Mina  lobata  (climber) — Feb.-Apr 6  months 


29 

Morning  Glory   (climbing) — Feb. -Apr 3  months 

Narcissus — Bulbs,  Sept.-Jan Spring  flowering 

Nemophila   (Baby  Blue  Eyes) — Feb.-Apr 2-3  months 

Nigella   (Love-in-a-Mist) — Sept.-Mar 3  months 

Pansy — Sept.-Oct.   (boxes),  Jan.-Mar 3-4  months 

Phlox  drummondii — Sept.-Mar 3-4  months 

Platystemon   (Cream  Cups) — After  first  rains 3  months 

Poppy — Sept.-Nov.,  Feb.-Mar 3-4  months 

Salpiglossis — Feb.-Apr.,  Sept.-Oct 3  months 

Scabiosa — Sept.-Oct.    (boxes),  Feb.-Apr 4  months 

Snail  Vine — Spring  after  frost  6  months 

Stock,  Ten  Weeks — Aug.-Sept.,  Jan.-Mar.   (boxes)   3  months 

Sweet    Pea — Sept.-Feb 4-6  months 

"  — Early  varieties,  Aug.-Feb 3-4  months 

"  — Dwarf  varieties,  Sept.-Feb 4-6  months 

Zinnia — Feb.-Apr 3   months 


Perennial  Flowers. 

Name.  Time  to  plant.  How  long  to  grow. 

Bellis   (Double  Daisy) — Feb.-Apr.,  Aug.,  Sept 6-8  months 

Columbine — Sept.-Oct 9    months 

Canna — Seeds,  Feb.-Mar.   (boxes)  ;  Apr 8-10  months 

11      — Tubers,  spring  2-3  months 

Canterbury  Bells — Aug.-Sept.,  Mar.-May 12  months 

Carnation — Sept.-Oct.    (beds)  ;   Nov.-Apr.    (boxes)    6-12  months 

Centauria   (Dusty  Miller) — Mar.-May  (boxes)   Ornamental  plant 

Chrysanthemum — Plants,   Apr.- June 5-6   months 

Daisy — Sept. -May   3   months 

Dahlia — Seeds,  Jan.-Mar.  (boxes)  ;  Apr.  (beds)  7-10  months 

"      — Boots,  Mar.-May 5  months 

Freesia — Seeds,  Feb.-Apr ...2  years 

tl       — Bulbs,  Sept.-Nov.  4  months 

Forget-Me-Not — Sept.-Nov.,  Mar.-May  6  months 

Gladiolus — Seeds,    Feb.-Apr 2   years 

"         —Bulbs,  Sept.-Dec. 3  months 

Foxglove — Sept.-Nov.,  Mar.-May 8-10  months 

Goldenrod — Seeds,   Jan.-Mar 1    year 

"         — Plants    (division) — Nov.-Jan.   6  months 

Gypsophila  paniculata — -Jan.-Mar.   4-6  months 

Heliotrope — Apr.-May   (boxes)   4-6  months 

Hollyhock  (biennial) — Sept.-Oct.,  Mar.-Apr 12  months 

Marguerite    (see  Chrysanthemum). 

Passion  Flower — Sept.-Mar Bapid  climber 

Perennial  Pea — Sept.-Mar 4-6  months 

Perennial  Phlox — Sept.-Nov.,  Mar.-May  6-8  months 

Perennial  Poppies — Sept.-Nov.,  Mar.-May  6-8  months 

Pinks,    China — Mar.-Apr 3    months 

Salvia   (Flowering  Sage) — Feb.-Mar.   (house),  Apr.-May  6  months 

Shasta  Daisy   (see  Chrysanthemum). 

Smilax — Seeds,  Jan.-Mar.   (boxes) 8-10  months 

lt      — Tubers,  any  time 2-3  months 

Snapdragon — Aug. -Oct..  Mar.-Apr ." 3  months 

Sweet  William — Aug.-Oct.,  Mar.-May  2  years 

Tulips — Bulbs,  Nov.-Jan.  Spring  flowering 

Violet — Seed,  Sept.-Mar 3-4  months 

li     — Plants,  any  time. 
Wallflower — Jan.-Mar 6-8  months 


30 


Plants  that  will   Thrive  with  Comparatively  Little   Water. 

Vegetables. 

Name.  Time  to  plant.  How  long  to  grow. 

Corn   (sweet) — Mar.-June,  Sept. -Oct.  ...(Give  good  cultivation)  ....2-3  months 

Eggplant — Mar.-Apr.    (boxes)    3  months 

"        — May-June    (beds)    3   months 

Melons — March  to  June  after  frosts 3-4  months 

Peppers  (chillies) — Jan.   (boxes)  ;  April  .  .4  months 

Pumpkin — March-June  after  frosts  5-6  months 

Squash — March-June  after  frosts  5-6  months 

Flowers. 
(All  annual  except  those  labeled  otherwise.) 

Name.  Time  to  plant.  How  long  to  grow. 

Alyssum,  Sweet — Oct. -Dec 2-3  months 

Australian  Pea  Vine — Mar.-Apr 3-4  months 

Calendula  "Pot  Marigold" — Oct. -Apr .2-3   months 

Candytuft — Oct.-May  3-4  months 

Castor  Bean    (P.) — Mar.-June  3  months 

Centaurea  (Corn  Flower) — Feb. -May,  Aug.-Oct.  3  months 

Collinsia — Sept.-Mar 2-3  months 

Eschscholtzia  (California  Poppy) — Sept.-Mar.  3  months 

Feverfew   (P.) — Oct. -Dec 6  months 

Flax,   Scarlet — Sept. -Oct.,   Feb. -May   3    months 

Four  O  'Clock — Sept.-Mar '. 2-4  months 

Gaillardia — Mar.-May  4  months 

Geranium  (P.) — Seed,  Sept.-Nov .4-6  months 

11  — Cuttings,  any  time. 

Gilia — Sept.-Nov 3-4   months 

Godetia — Oct.-Dec 3  months 

Lavender    (P) — Cuttings,    Nov. -Feb .2    years 

Lippia  repens    (P)  — (Lawn  plant).   Seeds,  Oct. -Feb 6   months 

11  Plants   (rooted  cuttings),  any  time. 

Lupins  (A  &  P; — Oct.-Dec 3  months 

Morning  Glory  (dwarf) — Feb. -Apr 2-3  months 

Nasturtium — Sept.-Apr. 2    months 

Portulaca — Feb.-Apr ..2V2    months 

Petunia — Feb.-Apr.    (after  frost)    3  months 

Sunflower — Any    time    3    months 

Pentstemon    (P) — Oct.-Dec. 4-6  months 

Plumbago    (P) — Plants  any  time  Bush  or  climber 

Salvia  (Scarlet  Sage) — Apr.-May;  Sept.  (boxes);  Feb.  (house). .4-6  months 

Solanum  jasminoides   (P),   (Potato  Vine) — Plants,  any  time  10-20    feet 

Verbena    (mostly  P) — Seeds,  Oct. -Mar.    (Dec.-Feb.  in  boxes)  ;   cuttings, 
Sept.-Mar. 4-5   months 


Where  to  Obtain  Seeds  and  Bulbs. 

1.  The  School  Garden  Association,  Grace  I.  Gay,  Secretary. 
501  Pierce  Building,  Boston.  Mass.,  will  furnish  seeds  in  single 
packets  or  in  collections  at  one  cent  per  packet.  Order  lists  and 
planting  directions  sent  free  upon  request. 


31 


2.  Certain  seed  dealers  take  so  much  interest  in  the  school 
garden  movement  as  to  make  special  arrangements  for  supplying 
seeds  to  schools  in  penny  packets. 

a,  Morris  and  Snow  Seed  Company,  425  South  Main  street, 
Los  Angeles,  will  supply  the  following  varieties  at  the  rate  of  one 
cent  per  packet,  if  ordered  for  school  garden  purposes.  Each 
packet  will  contain  enough  seed  so  that  a  row  from  6  to  20  feet 
long  can  be  made  of  each. 


Vegetables. 

Beets 
Carrots 
Cucumber 
Kale 

Lettuce 
Melons,  Musk 
Melons,  Water 
Parsley 

Flowers. 

Kadish 

Spinach 

Turnips 

Alyssum 

Candytuft 

Cosmos 

Calliopsis 
Linum  (flax) 
Marigold 

Morning  glory 

Mignonette 

Poppy 

b.  The  Theodosia  B.  Shepherd  Company,  Ventura,  will  sup- 
ply the  following  varieties  of  flower  seed  at  one  cent  per  packet 
on  bona  fide  orders  from  school  children.  Teachers  endorse 
orders. 


Abutilon 

Anchusa  capensis 

Arctotis  grande 

Begonia  semperfiorens 

Begonia  Eex 

Cactus,  mixed 

Calliopsis 

Centaurea 

Coboea,  scandens 

Coleus 

Dahlia,  Lily 

Daisy,  Blue 

Daisy,  Shasta 

Eschscholtzia,  Golden  West 


Geranium 

Gypsophila  (Baby's  Breath) 

Heliotrope 

Lpomoea,  Heavenly  Blue 

Ipomoea,  White  Tassel 

Mignonette 

Nasturtium 

Petunia  Fringed  Hybrids 

Poppy,  Fayal 

Poppy,  Irresistable 

Poppy,  Maid  of  the  Mist 

Poppy,  Shirley 

Stocks  or  Gilliflowers 

Sweet  Peas 


c.  Miss  K.  0.  Sessions.  P.  0.  Box  713,  San  Diego,  will  supply 
seeds  to  teachers  in  San  Diego  County  for  children's  gardens  at 
the  rate  of  one  cent  per  packet.  San  Diego  teachers  should  write 
to  Miss  Sessions  for  the  list  of  seeds  offered. 

d.  James  Vicks  Sons,  Rochester,  N.  Y.?  will  supply  seeds 
for  children's  gardens  in  penny  packets  as  follows: 


32 


■    1 

II  if 

X 


be 


33 


Flower 

Seeds. 

Asters 

Alyssum 

Bachelor's  Button 

Morning  Glory 
Nasturtium,  Climbing 
Petunia 

Calliopsis 
Candytuft 
Luanthus 

Phlox 
Poppy 
Scabiosa 

Marigold 
Mignonette 

Sweet  Peas 
Zinnia 

Vegetable  Seeds. 

Beans 

Onions 

Beets 

Eaddish 

Carrots 
Lettuce 

Spinach 
Sweet  Corn 

Postage  two  (2)  cents  extra  for  every  twelve  (12)  packets  of  flower 
seeds,  and  three  (3)  cents  extra  for  every  twelve  (12)  packets  of  vegetable 
seeds.  Large  orders  will  go  cheaper  by  express,  charges  to  be  paid  by  pur- 
chaser.    No  order  for  less  than  one  dozen  packets  accepted. 

3.  Bulbs  are  exceedingly  satisfactory  especially  for  the 
younger  pupils.  Carl  Purdy,  Ukiah,  offers  the  following  varie- 
ties of  bulbs  at  the  rate  of  one  cent  each  in  orders  from  teachers 
amounting  to  not  less  than  one  dollar;  Narcissus  poeticus,  Ane- 
mone (St.  Bridgits),  Ranunculus,  Crocus,  Gladiolus  (The  Bride), 
Late  Tulips,  Spanish  Irises.    See  planting  directions  on  page  38. 

4.  The  Federation  of  the  Tree  Growing  Clubs  of  America, 
H.  A.  Greene,  President,  Monterey,  Cal.,  will  supply  tree  seeds 
free  except  postage  to  teachers  for  use  in  school  grounds  or 
gardens  or  for  home  planting  by  pupils. 

5.  The  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  is  author- 
ized by  Congress  to  distribute  seeds  free  for  trial.  A  limited 
quantity  is  usually  sent  to  each  postoffice,  but  the  better  way  is 
to  make  application  to  the  representative  in  Congress  from  your 
district. 

6.  The  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  Berkeley,  offers 
seeds  of  new  varieties  for  introduction  at  a  nominal  price.  Write 
to  the  Director  for  printed  circular. 

INSTRUCTIONS  FOE  TEACHEES  BEGINNING  GAEDEN  WOEK. 

Selection  of  Location. 

For  the  sake  of  convenience  and  economy  of  time,  the  garden 
should  be  as  near  the  school  as  possible.  But  some  city  schools 
have  found  it  necessary  to  utilize  vacant  lots  situated  some  dis- 
tance away.  When  the  garden  is  to  occupy  a  portion  of  the 
school  yard,  several  things  should  be  kept  in  mind  in  selecting 
the  site. 


34 

The  land  should  be  as  nearly  level  as  possible  but  well  drained. 
The  ideal  soil  is  a  deep  loam,  rich  in  humus,  containing  sufficient 
clay  to  give  it  lasting  qualities  and  sand  enough  to  make  it 
friable.  Heavy  clay  or  " adobe"  soil  will  be  improved  by  having 
sand  added  at  the  rate  of  a  two-ton  wagon  load  to  the  square 
rod.  This  quantity  should  be  spaded  in  to  a  depth  of  at  least 
eight  inches.  If  weeds  are  growing  upon  the  land  when  the  site 
is  selected,  the  soil  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  having  the  vege- 
tation plowed  under  while  it  is  still  green.  This  will  increase 
the  humus  in  the  soil,  and  to  keep  the  humus  content  high  is  of 
vital  importance  in  soil  that  is  to  be  continually  cropped.  If 
a  certain  part  of  the  school  yard  has  decidedly  better  soil  than 
the  rest,  much  should  be  sacrificed  if  necessary  to  secure  the  best 
for  the  garden.  Only  those  gardeners  who  have  had  to  struggle 
against  the  handicap  of  a  refractory  soil  can  appreciate  the  full 
import  of  this. 

The  water  supply  should  be  near  at  hand  and,  if  possible, 
enough  hydrants  should  be  provided  so  that  pupils  will  not  have 
to  carry  water  far  or  wait  long  to  fill  watering  cans. 

Protection  from  dogs  and  other  animals  should  be  provided 
in  the  shape  of  a  wire  netting  fence,  or  a  barbed  wire  fence  with 
the  wires  set  close  near  the  surface  of  the  ground.  An  oblong 
or  square  enclosure  is  preferable  to  a  narrow  strip. 

The  size  of  the  garden  should  be  as  large  as  possible.  The 
usual  size  of  children's  gardens  today  is  far  too  small.  The 
larger  the  individual  plot,  the  greater  the  responsibility,  and 
the  more  satisfactory  will  be  the  results,  with  due  proportion  of 
time  and  work. 

Laying  Out  Gardens. 

(The  following  directions  for  laying  out  gardens  were  kindly 
furnished  by  Mr.  C.  T.  Wright,  at  that  time  Supervisor  of  Geog- 
raphy in  High  and  Grammar  Schools  in  Redlands.) 

First  Day. 

Apparatus.  Stakes,  cords  (mason's  line),  rocks  or  hammers 
to  drive  stakes  into  the  ground,  steel  tape  or  marked  cord. 

Each  cord  is  placed  around  one  block  of  gardens  lying  end  to 
end.  Pupils  pass  in  line  up  and  down  the  paths  thus  marked 
out,  dragging  their  feet  on  the  first  round  to  level  down  the 
ground,  tramping  on  succeeding  rounds  to  render  the  paths  hard. 


35 

The  cords  are  then  changed  so  as  to  run  in  the  opposite  direction, 
each  cord  being  placed  around  a  block  of  gardens  lying  side  by 
side.    Paths  are  tramped  as  before. 

Pupils  take  their  places,  each  at  the  end  of  a  garden,  say  the 
west  end  and  face  east.  Each  pupil  should  get  two  stakes  and 
a  rock  or  hammer  to  drive  the  stakes.  The  teacher  and  an  as- 
sistant or  two  pupils  stretch  the  measuring  line  across  the  ends 
of*  the  block  of  gardens  in  front  of  the  row  of  pupils.  Each 
pupil  drives  a  stake  at  the  northwest  corner  of  his  garden,  plac- 
ing it  accurately  by  the  measuring  line.  This  stake  should  have 
one  smooth  side  for  writing  a  name,  and  this  smooth  side  should 
be  toward  the  west.  Similarly  each  pupil  places  a  stake  at  the 
southwest  corner  of  his  garden.  In  a  similar  way  other  pupils 
place  stakes  at  the  heads  of  another  row  of  gardens,  and  so  on 
until  all  the  gardens  are  marked  out  in  this  way. 

Second  Day. 

Apparatus.  Garden  rakes,  rulers,  measuring  line  ''steel 
tape),  cords  (mason's  line). 

The  teacher  assigns  one  garden  to  each  pupil.  The  pupil 
writes  his  name  on  the  west  side  of  the  stake  at  the  northwest 
corner.  In  writing  his  name  the  pupil  should  stand  so  as  to 
begin  the  name  at  the  top  of  the  stake.  Pupils  remove  all  sticks 
and  stones  from  the  gardens.  This  material  may  be  piled  up  in 
the  path  at  the  side  of  each  garden  until  the  pupil  is  ready  to 
remove  it.  In  removing  it  the  pupil  should  carry  it.  He  should 
never  throw  it  from  his  garden.  Use  rakes  and  dig  up  the  soil 
as  deeply  as  possible,  removing  by  hand  any  sticks  and  stones. 
In  digging,  the  pupil  should  hold  the  rake  below  the  middle  of 
the  handle ;  in  raking  it  may  be  held  near  the  middle  but  usually 
not  above  the  middle.  Near  the  center  of  the  garden,  the  work 
can  be  best  done  if  the  pupil  will  stand  in  the  path  at  the  side 
of  the  garden,  and  not  at  the  end  as  some  will  do.  The  pupil 
should  rake  the  surface  of  his  garden  thoroughly,  until  the  soil 
is  thoroughly  pulverized.  The  surface  should  be  left  perfectly 
level  and  smooth.  In  laying  aside  the  rake  always  put  the  teeth 
down. 

Rulers  may  be  used  to  scrape  up  any  loose  soil  from  the 
path,  leaving  the  path  smooth  and  level  and  as  hard  as  possible. 
The  loose  soil  thus  scraped  up  may  be  scattered  evenly  over  the 
entire  garden,  or  carried  to  the  fence  and  thrown  over.     The 


36 

edges  of  the  garden  should  stand  up  as  nearly  straight  as  pos- 
sible from  the  path.  The  garden  should  be  bounded  by  per- 
fectly straight  lines.  The  mason's  line  may  be  stretched  across 
the  entire  plot  to  test  the  straightness  of  the  lines  and  to  enable 
pupils  to  correct  mistakes. 

Third  Day. 

Apparatus.  Stakes,  ruler  (yard  stick)  for  teacher's  use, 
cords  (mason's  line),  seeds,  sprinkling  pots. 

Teacher  stretches  cord  across  the  end  of  all  the  gardens  on 
one  block,  six  inches  from  the  head  of  each  garden.  Each  pupil 
makes  a  furrow  across  his  garden.  This  should  be  on  the  side 
of  the  string  next  to  the  head  of  the  garden  and  as  near  to  the 
string  as  possible  without  moving,  the  string.  The  depth  of  the 
furrow  is  to  be  determined  by  the  kind  of  seed  to  be  sown. 
Pupil  plants  seeds  according  to  the  instructions  given  at  the 
time,  covers  them,  and  applies  water.  It  is  better  to  apply  water 
as  late  in  the  afternoon  as  possible.  Water  should  never  be 
put  on  so  abundantly  that  it  runs  off.  Water  only  that  portion 
of  the  garden  which  has  been  planted.  The  remainder  of  the 
garden  may  be  raked  if  necessary.  The  paths  should  be  left 
clean,  smooth  and  as  hard  as  possible.  Care  should  be  taken 
to  preserve  the  straight  lines  of  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  gardens. 
Neglect  to  water  the  planted  portion  of  the  garden  may  prove 
fatal  to  the  young  plants. 

Preparation  of  Soil. 

The  directions  for  pupils,  for  the  second  day  in  the  above 
outline,  obviously  call  for  some  preliminary  preparation  of  the 
garden  as  a  whole.  If  a  green  crop  has  been  plowed  in  some 
time  previous  to  the  laying  out  of  plots,  the  land  should  be  well 
harrowed  to  pulverize  and  level  the  surface.  If  the  tract  is 
properly  spaded  when  the  soil  is  friable,  it  will  be  in  condition 
to  proceed  as  above  directed.  If  possible  a  top-dressing  of 
rotted  stable  manure  should  be  applied  before  spading  or  plow- 
ing. 

Planting  Seeds. 

The  question  of  how  deep  to  plant  seeds  will  confront  every 
would-be  gardener,  and  yet  it  is  impossible  to  set  forth  any 
general  rule,  to  be  followed  with  all  seeds,  in  all  kinds  of  soils, 
and  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.     A  seed  is  a  living,  embryonic 


37 

plant,  existing  in  dormant  condition,  and  protected  by  its 
coverings.  In  order  that  seeds  shall  germinate,  they  must  be 
given  moisture  and  a  certain  degree  of  warmth,  the  required 
amount  of  each  depending  upon  the  kind  of  seed.  Under  Cali- 
fornia conditions,  especially  when  water  is  to  be  applied  arti- 
ficially, the  thing  of  highest  importance  is  to  provide  for  uni- 
form moisture  conditions,  and  to  prevent  surface  baking  of 
clayey  soils.  Providing  a  light  mulch,  or  giving  shade  by  using 
tree  primings  or  other  litter,  will  secure  this  end.  The  soil 
should  be  thoroughly  and  deeply  moistened,  but  friable  and 
finely  pulverized,  when  the  seeds  are  planted.  The  old  rule 
of  planting  seeds  at  a  depth  equal  to  twice  their  diameter  might 
be  a  safe  one  to  follow  under  ideal  conditions,  but  ordinarily, 
in  the  open  ground,  three  or  four  times  that  depth  will  be  safer. 

The  season  of  the  year,  since  it  affects  the  temperature,  has 
much  to  do  with  percentage  of  germination.  Bailey  says  that 
sometimes  lettuce  and  melons  which  germinate  only  50  per  cent, 
in  December  will  germinate  70  or  80  per  cent,  in  April.  This 
principle  has  been  kept  in  mind  in  arranging  the  planting  guide, 
and  the  chief  reason  for  recommending  planting  in  boxes  is 
that  they  can  be  kept  indoors  at  a  higher  temperature  than  in 
the  open.  At  the  same  time,  planting  in  boxes  or  seed-beds  is 
advantageous  with  many  other  seeds  besides  those  so  indicated 
in  the  guide,  as,  for  example,  asters  or  tomatoes,  because  con- 
ditions can  be  regulated  more  easily  and,  in  transplanting,  the 
best  plants  can  be  chosen  and  planted  out  far  enough  apart  to 
insure  a  good  bedding  effect  or  maximum  yield. 

For  satisfactory  germination  most  seeds  should  be  less  than 
one  year  old.  Most  seedsmen  are  conscientious  in  regard  to 
selling  only  fresh  -seed,  that  has  been  tested  for  a  high  percent- 
age of  germination.  If  seeds  fail  to  germinate  under  quite 
favorable  conditions,  it  is  probably  due  to  low  viability.  Such 
seed  may  be  tested  by  means  of  a  simple  contrivance  (16,  d,  p. 
27).  In  providing  seed  for  extensive  gardens,  it  would  be  well 
to  test  it  beforehand,  unless  it  is  sold  under  guarantee.  How- 
ever, according  to  Bailey,  some  seeds,  like  melons,  pumpkins, 
and  cucumbers,  retain  their  vitality  unimpaired  for  a  number 
of  years,  and  "seeds  of  corn  salad  should  be  a  year  old  to  ger- 
minate well." 

Stratification  is  necessary  for  most  seeds  of  fruit  and  nut 
trees.     The  essential  points  in  this  operation  are  to  supply  uni- 


38 

form  hut  not  excessive  moisture,  and  moderately  cool  tempera- 
ture (or  even  freezing  for  some  hard  seeds  of  hardy  plants) 
over  a  period  of  several  weeks  or  months.  This  condition  is 
most  easily  secured  in  the  open  by  burying  the  seeds  and  cov- 
ering with  six  inches  of  sand.  When  the  seeds  begin  to  sprout 
they  should  be  taken  out  and  planted  in  place  or  in  nursery 
rows.  Many  seeds,  as  peach,  almond,  and  walnut,  will  give  a 
fairly  good  stand  if  planted  in  the  fall  in  the  nursery  row  at 
a  depth  of  six  or  eight  inches.  But  there  will  always  be  a  cer- 
tain proportion  that  do  not  germinate  until  the  second  year. 

Careful  planting  always  pays,  especially  with  the  small  seeds. 
If  possible,  they  should  be  sown  in  boxes  or  special  beds.  Level 
the  surface  before  sowing,  and  cover  the  seed  by  sifting  on  the 
top  layer  and  pressing  the  surface  gently  with  a  flat  block  of 
wood.  When  watering,  spray  the  surface  gently  or  first  cover 
with  burlap.  Give  partial  shade  at  all  times,  and  when  the 
seedlings  show  the  second  pair  of  leaves  transplant  into  boxes 
or  pots,  from  which  they  can  be  shifted  to  the  open  ground. 
These  directions  apply  to  all  the  small-sized  tree  seeds  as  well 
as  flower  seeds. 

Planting  Bulbs. 

The  following  directions  for  planting  and  future  care  of 
bulbs  were  furnished  by  Mr.  Carl  Purdy.  (See  statement  of 
his  offer  of  bulbs  at  the  price  of  one  cent  each,  to  school  chil- 
dren, p.  33.) 

Narcissus  poeticus  ornatus.  Any  but  very  dry,  sandy,  or 
gritty  soil,  but  thrives  best  in  moist  and  heavy  soils,  especially 
clays.  Work  the  soil  twelve  inches  deep.  Plant  with  the  top 
of  the  bulb  three  inches  deep,  set  four  inches  apart  each  way. 
Water  thoroughly  until  after  bloom,  if  weather  is  dry.  Dry 
off  in  summer  and  leave  three  years  before  resetting. 

Anemone  (St.  Bridgits).  Best  soils  should  be  very  loose  and 
light.  To  secure  this  condition  use  old  manure,  rotten  chips, 
old  sawdust,  or  leaf  mould.  Plant  in  fall,  two  inches  deep,  and 
three  inches  apart  each  way.  Water  if  dry.  Ripen  off  after 
flowering,  and  leave  several  years  without  resetting. 

Ranunculus.     Same  soil  and  treatment  as  for  Anemone. 

Crocus.  Plant  in  fall,  two  inches  deep,  and  three  inches 
apart  each  way.  Best  soil,  sandy  or  light  loam.  If  soil  is  heavy, 
lighten  as  for  Anemones.     Leave  alone  three  years,  then  reset. 


39 

Gladiolus  (The  Bride).  A  sandy  or  loamy  soil  best  suits 
them,  but  any  well-drained  soil  will  do.  Set  three  inches  deep 
and  four  inches  apart  each  way.  Plant  in  fall  or  until  January 
1st.  If  dry,  water  well  until  a  month  after  flowering.  Reset 
second  year. 

Late  Tulips.  Best  soil,  a  well-drained  loam,  either  sandy 
or  clayey.  A  wet  soil  will  not  do  at  all.  Remove  soil  to  seven 
inches  depth,  and  at  bottom  put  an  inch  of  well-rotted  manure. 
On  this  put  two  inches  of  the  soil,  and  plant  the  bulbs  so  that 
they  will  be  covered  three  inches  deep.  Water  thoroughly  from 
the  time  that  the  buds  show  until  three  weeks  after  bloom.  Dig 
when  leaves  turn  yellow.     Plant  in  early  fall. 

Spanish  Irises.  Best  soil,  a  heavy  loam.  Lighter  or  heavier 
soil  will  do  if  drainage  is  good.  Plant  like  Narcissus.  Do  not 
lift  until  clumps  get  too  thick.    Water  well  after  buds  show. 

General  Note. — To  get  the  best  flowers  from  any  of  the  above 
bulbs,  there  should  be  light  shade.  The  east  or  west  side  of  a 
building  will  do:  or,  better,  some  point  where,  in  April,  the 
shade  of  a  deciduous  tree  strikes  the  bed  from  a  third  to  half 
the  day. 

Gophers  will  eat  any  of  the  above  excepting  Narcissus.  If 
necessary,  they  can  be  planted  in  a  box  sunk  in  the  ground. 

Planting  Shrubs  and  Trees. 

The  following  concise  directions  for  planting  shrubs  and 
trees  are  copied  from  the  1909  catalogue  of  the  American  For- 
estry Company,  South  Framingham,  Mass. :  * '  Before  planting, 
the  roots  should  be  thoroughly  soused  in  a  'puddle'  made  of 
rich,  fine  earth  or  black  muck,  and  water,  mixed  to  the  consist- 
ency or  ordinary  paint.  The  plants  should  be  carried  to  the 
field  either  in  a  bucket  containing  puddle'  or  water,  or  in  a 
basket  with  burlap  or  some  such  covering  to  protect  the  roots, 
previously  puddled.  Any  very  long,  superfluous  roots  should 
be  cut  off  with  a  sharp  knife  or  cleaver.  In  the  case  of  small 
hardwood  seedlings,  with  a  strong  tap-root,  cut  the  tap-root 
back  to  a  length  of  eight  or  ten  inches,  making  a  downward, 
slanting  cut.  There  must  be  no  exposure  of  the  roots  to  the 
sun  or  drying  wind,  before  setting,  as  plants  are  almost  surely 
killed  in  this  way;  this  is  especially  true  of  evergreens.  In  set- 
ting the  trees,  two  men  work  together,  one  carrying  the  plants 


40 

and  setting  them,  the  other  making  the  holes.  The  best  all-round 
digging  tool  is  the  double-edged  cutting  hoe,  or  mattack.  While 
one  man  makes  the  hole,  the  second  man  (or  boy)  places  the 
plant  in  the  hole  with  the  roots  straight  down  and  spreading 
in  a  natural  position.  The  best  well-broken  or  'fined'  soil  must 
then  be  packed  so  solidly  about  the  roots  as  to  make  them  air- 
tight. The  plant  should  be  set  about  one  inch  deeper  than  it 
was  originally  in  the  nursery,  to  allow  for  the  settling  of  the 
ground;  after  settling,  it  should  be  just  as  deep  as  it  was  in 
the  nursery.  Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  set  small  plants 
too  deep,  especially  in  heavy  soils.  The  roots  can  hardly  be 
packed  too  firmly.  For  plants  set  in  early  spring,  the  ground 
is  usually  damp  enough,  but  if  they  are  set  very  late,  or  if  a 
drought  follows  immediately,  it  may  be  necessarjr  to  water  them." 
(It  will  certainly  be  necessary  in  most  parts  of  California.) 

The  above  directions  refer  to  large  plants,  such  as  one  would 
buy  from  a  nursery.  In  handling  seedlings  of  one's  own  grow- 
ing, they  should  be  in  cans  or  small  boxes  which  may  be  left 
intact  or  partly  loosened,  without  disturbing  the  roots,  when 
the  plant  is  set  in  its  permanent  location. 

Value  of  Furrow  Irrigation. 

The  economical  use  of  water  is  one  of  the  most  important 
principles  that  can  be  inculcated  by  means  of  the  school  gar- 
den. The  advantage  of  soaking  the  soil  about  once  a  week  and 
then  tilling  it,  rather  than  sprinkling  the  surface  every  day  or 
two,  has  been  mentioned.  The  economy  of  water  may  be  still 
further  insured  by  practicing  furrow  irrigation.  To  quote  from 
Hilgard's  "Soils":  "Evidently  this  is  a  much  more  rational 
procedure  than  surface  flooding,  as  it  tends  to  leave  most  of 
the  surface  in  loose  tilth,  while  penetrating  to  much  greater 
advantage,  because  of  the  ready  escape  of  the  air  from  the  soil. 
It  is  the  system  almost  exclusively  used  in  truck  gardens  and 
orchards,  and  generally  where  crops  are  grown  in  drills  or  rows 
sufficiently  far  apart  to  permit  of  cultivation."  The  desirabil- 
ity of  furrow  irrigation  should  be  kept  in  mind,  therefore,  when 
planning  the  arrangement  of  the  individual  gardens  of  the  chil- 
dren, so  that  space  may  be  allowed  for  this  method  of  watering. 
The  trenches  may  be  made  with  a  hoe,  and  should  be  filled  two 
or  three   times   in   succession  to   insure   copious  sub-irrigation. 


41 

After  the  water  has  disappeared,  the  furrows  may  be  closed  at 
once  with  dry  earth,  if  the  surface  soil  on  either  side  has  not 
been  soaked.  Thus  the  necessity  of  spending  a  period  in  the 
garden  on  the  following  day  may  be  lessened.  This  is  a  feature 
worth  considering  in  schools  where  the  time  for  gardening  is 
necessarily  limited.  Moreover,  there  are  other  important  prin- 
ciples connected  with  this  mode  of  irrigation,  such  as  insuring 
the  deep  rooting  of  plants,  and  prevention  of  surface  baking, 
and  loss  by  evaporation. 

Cultivation. 

To  keep  a  surface  mulch  of  finely  pulverized  soil  so  as  to 
reduce  evaporation  to  a  minimum  is  the  chief  purpose  of  cul- 
tivation. A  hoe  or  a  rake,  according  to  whether  the  soil  is 
clayey  or  sandy,  is  the  best  tool  to  use.  Cultivation  should  be 
practiced  after  each  rain  or  thorough  sprinkling.  But  the  soil 
should  not  be  stirred  until  it  has  dried  sufficiently  to  crumble 
readily.  If  the  soil  is  inclined  to  set  or  pack  below  the  surface, 
it  should  be  stirred  more  deeply  so  as  to  improve  its  physical 
condition   and  allow  better  root  development. 

Time  Necessary  for  Garden  Work. 

Although  children  often  become  so  enthusiastic  as  to  be 
willing  to  work  in  their  gardens  outside  the  school  hours,  it  is 
well  to  have  some  regular  gardening  periods,  when  the  teacher 
can  supervise,  suggest  and  correct.  As  Professor  Jackman  says, 
' '  Odds  and  ends  of  time  will  not  do — the  weeds  do  not  grow  by 
fits  and  starts."  In  some  schools  part  of  the  regular  nature- 
study  periods  are  set  aside  for  gardening.  In  the  Los  Angeles 
Normal  School,  in  1906-7,  two  hours  per  week  for  each  pupil 
were  found  to  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  plots  neat  and  the  plants 
flourishing.  It  will  save  much  time  and  labor  on  the  part  of 
the  children  if  the  garden  has  been  plowed  and  harrowed  before 
the  garden  work  begins.  In  general,  pupils  should  be  encour- 
aged to  devote  as  much  time  as  they  will  to  this  work. 

The  Garden  During  Vacation. 

It  is  highly  desirable  that  some  provision  be  made  for  the 
appearance  of  the  school  garden  during  the  long  vacation.  A 
deserted  or  neglected  garden  is  a  standing  reproach  against  its 


42 


Fig.  11. — Pupils  of  the  Los  Angeles  Normal  School  Training  Department, 
working  in  their  plots. 


Fig.  12. — Training  school  gardens  at  Los  Angeles  Nor- 
mal School  in  1907. 


43 

owners.  Therefore,  if  nothing  else  can  be  done,  remove  all 
plants  that  may  not  grow  without  attention,  and  leave  the  land 
bare.  A  more  desirable  plan  would  be  to  provide  for  the  nec- 
essary labor  by  calling  for  volunteers  among  the  older  pupils. 
The  planting  of  fall-blooming  herbs,  shrubs,  and  vines  in  bor- 
ders and  along  fences  may  be  conditioned  upon  such  an  agree- 
ment on  the  part  of  the  children.  However,  it  may  be  possible 
to  secure  an  appropriation  from  the  school  board  which  will 
obviate  the  necessity  of  depending  on  volunteers. 


How  to  Secure  Special  Preparation  for  Teaching  Nature-Study 
within  California. 

(1)  The  State  Normal  Schools.  Special  work  in  nature-study 
and  gardening  can  be  arranged  at  each  of  the  normal  schools, 
at  San  Diego,  Los  Angeles,  San  Jose,  and  Chico.  The  gardens 
at  two  of  these  institutions  are  illustrated  in  figures  1,  6,  9,  11, 
12.   13,  14. 

(2)  The  University  of  California. 

(a)  Bulletins,  including  reading  courses  in  entomol- 

ogy and  irrigation. 

(b)  Farmers'  Institutes. 

(c)  Short  Courses  at  the  University  Farm.     (See  Cir- 

cular No.  45.) 

(d)  The  Summer  Session  of  the  University  at  Berke- 

ley.     (See   regular   Announcement,    to   be   ob- 
tained from  the  Recorder  of  the  Faculties.) 

(e)  Regular   or   special   course,   including   studies   in 

education,  natural  science,  and  agriculture. 

(3)  The  California  Polytechnic  School  at  San  Luis  Obispo 
offers  a  secondary  course  in  agriculture  and  domestic  science, 
from  one  to  three  years  in  length,  which  should  give  definite 
preparation  for  the  teaching  of  elementary  subjects. 

Any  person  who  contemplates  doing  special  work  in  agricul- 
tural nature-study  should  consult  the  recent  report  of  Professor 
L.  H.  Bailey  upon  this  subject  (17)  and  Crosby's  paper  on 
"Training  Courses  for  Teachers  of  Agriculture"   (14). 


44 


Fig.  13. — View  of  gardens  at  Los  Angeles  Normal  School 
showing  lath  house  and  glass  house  in  foreground. 


r? 

* 

*^i 

^jjg&&..  "a 

'»•  "•$WHJ 

3f 

Hi 

Fig.   14. — Student   teachers'    class   in  gardening   at   the 
Los  Angeles  Normal  School,  1907. 


45 


List  of  Works  Referred  to  by  Numbers  in  this  Circular. 

1.  "  Agricultural    Education,    including    Nature-Study    and    School    Gar- 

dens, "  by  J.  E.  Jewell.     Department  of  the  Interior:   Bureau  of 
Education,  Bulletin  No.  2,  Whole  Number  368;  Washington,  D.  C. 

2.  "School  Gardens  for  California  Schools,"  by  B.  M.  Davis.     Bulletin 

No.  1,  Chico  State  Normal  School.  Price,  30  cents. 
3a.  "The  School  Garden,' '  by  L.  C.  Corbett.  Farmers'  Bulletin  218. 
Sent  free  by  The  Secretary,  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture, 
Washington,  D.  C. 
b.  ' '  School  Gardens, M  by  B.  T.  Galloway,  Chief  of  Bureau  of  Plant  In- 
dustry. Office  of  Experiment  Stations,  Bulletin  No.  160,  U.  S. 
Department  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.     Price,  10  cents. 

4.  First    Annual   Report,    International    Children's    School   Farm   League 

(1907).     Sent  on  application  to  the  Secretary,  29  West  Fifty-sixth 
street,  New  York  City. 

5.  These  and  No.  6  can  be  obtained  free  of  charge  by  sending  to   The 

Secretary   of   Agriculture,   Washington,   D.   C. 

a.  ' '  The   Teaching   of   Agriculture  in   the   Rural   Common   Schools, ' '   by 

Committee  of  Five.     Circular  60,  Office  of  Experiment  Stations. 

b.  "Country  Life  Education,"  by  W.  M.  Hays,  Assistant  Secretary   of 

Agriculture.     Circular   73,   Office   of   Experiment   Stations. 

c.  ' '  Introduction  of  Elementary  Agriculture  into  Schools, "  by  A.  C.  True, 

Director  of  the  Office  of  Experiment  Stations.     Reprint  from  Year- 
Book  of  the  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture  for  1906. 

6.  "Progress  in  Agricultural  Education,   1906,"  by  D.  J.   Crosby.     Re- 

print from  Annual  Report,   Office   of  Experiment   Stations,   ended 
June,  1906.     Pages  281-287  treat  especially  of  school  gardens. 

7.  "Why  the  Friends  of  Agricultural  Progress  Believe  that  Agriculture 

Should  and  Will  be  Taught  in  the  Public  Schools,"  by  A.  C.  True. 
Circular  No.  16,  Experiment  Station,  Berkeley.     Free. 

8.  "School  Gardening,"  by  D.  R.  Wood.     California  Education,  Vol.  I, 

No.  2,  March,  1906;  A.  Sherriffs,  457  North  Third  street,  San  Jose, 
Cal.     Price,  40  cents. 

9.  "Outline   of   Course  in    Nature-Study,"   by  L.   H.    Miller   and   E.    B. 

Babcock.     Bulletin,  State  Normal  School,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.     Free. 
10a.  "Notes    on    Dry    Farming,"    by    W.    M.    Jardine.      Circular    No.    10, 
Bureau  of  Plant  Industry,  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  Wash- 
ington, D.  C.     Free. 

b.  ' '  Dry-land  Grains, "  by  W.  M.  Jardine.     Circular  No.   12,  Bureau  of 

Plant  Industry,  Secretary  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.    Free. 

c.  "The  Use  of   Small   Water  Supplies   for   Irrigation,"   by   S.   Fortier. 

Separate   458.      Year-Book   of   U.    S.    Department    of   Agriculture, 
1907.     Secretary  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.     Free. 

d.  "Suggestions   for  Arbor  Day   Planting."      (Trees  and   shrubs   suited 

to  Arizona  and  parts  of  California.)     Circular  No.  62,  Agricultural 

Experiment  Station,  Tucson,  Ariz. 
11a.  "Eucalyptus   in   California,"   by   N.    D.    Ingham.     Bulletin    No.    196, 

State  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  Berkeley.     Free, 
b.  "A  Handbook  for  Eucalyptus  Planters,"  by  G.  B.  Lull,  Circular  No. 

2,  State  Board  of  Forestry,  Sacramento,  Cal.     Free. 
12a.  California  Seedsmen  and  Nurserymen,  partial  list. 

C.  C.  Morse  &  Co.,  Successors  to  Cox  Seed  Co.,  San  Francisco. 

Carl  Purdy,  Ukiah,  Cal.      (Imported  and  native  bulbs.) 

Germain  Seed  Company,  Los  Angeles. 


46 

Chas.   Winsell,    Los   Angeles. 
H.  M.  Sanborn,  Oakland. 
Aggeler  &  Johnson   Seed  Co.,  Los  Angeles. 
May  Seed  Company,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 
Miss  K.  O.  Sessions,  San  Diego. 
Morris  &  Snow  Seed  Co.,  Los  Angeles. 

Southern  California  Acclimatizing  Association,  Santa  Barbara. 
Theodore  Payne,  Los  Angeles.     (Seeds  of  native  plants.) 
Theodosia  B.  Shepherd  Co.,  Ventura. 
Trumbull  Seed  Co.,  San  Francisco, 
b.  Nurserymen  who  do  not  handle  seeds. 

Abraham,   C.   C,   1600  Greenwich   St.,   San  Francisco. 

Armstrong,  John  S.,  Ontario. 

California  Nursery  Co.,  Niles. 

Coronado   Nurseries,   San  Diego. 

Exotic  Nurseries,  Santa  Barbara. 

Fancher  Creek  Nurseries,  Fresno. 

Gill,  E.,  West  Berkeley. 

Howard  &  Smith,  Los  Angeles. 

Pacific  Nursery,   3041  Baker  St.,   San  Francisco. 

Pioneer  Nursery,  Monrovia. 

Teague  Citrus  Nursery,   San  Dimas. 

13.  Eeport  of  the  Committee  on  Industrial  Education  in  Schools  for  Kural 

Communities   to   the   National   Council   of   Education,   July,    1905; 
pp.  57-61. 

14.  ' '  Training   Courses   for   Teachers    of   Agriculture,"    by   D.   J.    Crosby, 

Expert  in  Agricultural  Education.     Separate  No.  445,  Year-Book, 
1907.      Secretary   of   Agriculture,   Washington,   D.   C.     Free. 

15a.  "Boys'  Agricultural  Clubs,"  by  Dick  J.  Crosby,  Separate  362,  Year- 
Book,  1904.     Secretary  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.     Free, 
b.  ' '  The    Art    of    Seed    Selection    and    Breeding, ' '    by    A.    S.    Shamel. 
Separate  446,  Year-Book,   1907.     Secretary  of  Agriculture,  Wash- 
ington, D.  C.     Free. 

16a.  ' '  The  Use  of  Illustrative  Material  in  Teaching  Agriculture  in  Eural 
Schools,"  by  Dick  J.  Crosby.  Separate  382,  Year-Book,  1905. 
Secretary  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.     Free. 

b.  ' '  Experimental  Studies  of  Plant  Growth, "  by  B.  M.  Davis,  Bulletin, 

Miami  University,  Oxford,   Ohio.     Free. 

c.  ' '  One  Hundred  Experiments  in  Elementary  Agriculture  for  California 

Schools,"   by   Riley   O.   Johnson.      State   Normal    School   Bulletin, 

Chico,  Cal.     Price,  30  cents. 
(1.  "Exercises  in  Elementary  Agriculture — Plant  Production,"  by  D.  J. 

Crosby.     Office  of  Experiment   Stations,   Bulletin   186.     Price,   10 

cents. 
e.  ' '  Simple    Exercises    Illustrating    Some    Applications    of    Chemistry    to 

Agriculture."     Bulletin  195,  Office  of  Experiment  Stations.     Price, 

5  cents. 

17.  "On  the   Training  of  Persons    to    Teach    Agriculture    in    the    Public 

Schools,"    by   Liberty    Hyde    Bailey,    Department    of    the    Interior: 
Bureau  of  Education,  Bulletin  No.   1,  1908,  Whole  No.   380. 

18.  "The  Weather  Bureau  and  the  Public   Schools,"  by  John  R.   Weeks. 

Separate  471,   Year-book,   1907.     Secretary  of  Agriculture,  Wash- 
ington, D.  C.     Free. 

19.  "The  Way  to  Grow  Trees  Yourself."     Circular  of  information.     The 

Federation    of    Tree    Growing    Clubs    of    America,    H.    A.    Greene, 
President,   Monterey,   Cal. 

20.  List    of    Free   Publications    of   the   U.    S.    Department    of    Agriculture, 

Washington,  D.  C.     Secretary  of  Agriculture.     Free. 


47 

Publications  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station, 
University  of  California. 

BULLETINS. 

Beprint.  Endurance  of  Drought  in  Soils  of  the  Arid  Region. 

No.  128.  Nature  Value  and  Utilization  of  Alkali  Lands,  and  Tolerance 
of  Alkali.     (Revised  and  Reprint,  1905.) 

140.  Lands  of  the  Colorado  Delta  in  Salton  Basin,  and  Supplement. 

142.  Grasshoppers  in  California. 

147.  Culture  Work  of  the  Sub-stations. 

149.  California  Sugar  Industry. 

150.  The  Value  of  Oak  Leaves  for  Forage. 

151.  Arsenical  Insecticides. 

153.  Spraying   with  Distillates. 

154.  Sulfur  Spravs  for  Red  Spider. 
156.  Fowl  Cholera. 

159.  Contribution  to  the  Study  of  Fermentation. 

161.  Tuberculosis  in  Fowls.     (Reprint.) 

162.  Commercial  Fertilizers.     (Dec.  1,  1904.) 

163.  Pear  Scab. 

165.  Asparagus  and  Asparagus  Rust  in  California. 

167.  Manufacture  of  Dry  Wines  in  Hot  Countries. 

168.  Observations  on  Some  Vine  Diseases  in  Sonoma  County. 

169.  Tolerance  of  the  Sugar  Beet  for  Alkali. 

170.  Studies  in  Grasshopper  Control. 

171.  Commercial  Fertilizers.   (June  30,  1905.) 

172.  Further  Experience  in  Asparagus  Rust  Control. 
174.  A  New  Wine-cooling  Machine. 

176.  Sugar  Beets  in  the  San  Joaquin  Valley. 

177.  A  New  Method  of  Making  Dry  Red  Wine. 

178.  Mosquito  Control. 

179.  Commercial  Fertilizers.     (June,  1906.) 

180.  Resistant  Vineyards. 

181.  The  Selection  of  Seed  Wheat. 

182.  Analysis  of  Paris  Green  and  Lead  Arsenic.     Proposed  Insecti- 

cide Law. 

183.  The  California  Tussock-moth. 

184.  Report  of  the  Plant  Pathologist  to  July  1,  1906. 

185.  Report  of  Progress  in  Cereal  Investigations. 

186.  The  Oidium  of  the  Vine. 

187.  Commercial  Fertilizers.     (January,  1907). 

188.  Lining  of  Ditches  and  Reservoirs  to  Prevent  Seepage  and  Losses. 

189.  Commercial  Fertilizers.     (June,  1907.) 

190.  The  Brown  Rot  of  the  Lemon. 

191.  California  Peach  Blight. 

192.  Insects  Injurious  to  the  Vine  in  California. 

193.  The  Best  Wine  Grapes  for  California;   Pruning  Young  Vines; 

Pruning  the  Sultanina. 

194.  Commercial  Fertilizers.     (Dec,  1907.) 

195.  The  California  Grape  Root-worm. 

196.  Eucalyptus  in  California. 

197.  Grape    Culture    in    California;     Improved    Methods    of    Wine 

Making;  Yeasts  from  California  Grapes. 

198.  The  Grape  Leaf-Hopper. 

199.  The  Bovine  Tuberculosis. 

200.  Gum  Disease  of  Citrus  Fruits. 

201.  Commercial  Fertilizers. 

202.  Commercial  Fertilizers. 


48 


CIRCULARS. 

No.     1.  Texas     Fever. 

2.  Blackleg. 

3.  Hog  Cholera. 

4.  Anthrax. 

5.  Contagious  Abortion  in  Cows. 
7.  Remedies  for  Insects. 

9.  Asparagus  Rust. 

10.  Reading  Course  in  Economic  Entomology.     (Revision.) 

11.  Fumigation  Practice. 

12.  Silk  Culture. 

15.     Recent    Problems    in    Agriculture.      What    a    University    Farm 
is   For. 

17.  Why  Agriculture  Should  be  Taught  in  the  Public  Schools. 

18.  Caterpillars  on  Oaks. 

19.  Disinfection  of  Stables. 

21.  The  Advancement  of  Agricultural  Education. 

24.  Olive  Pickling. 

26.  Selection  and  Preparation  of  Vine  Cuttings. 

27.  Marly  Subsoils  and  the  Chlorosis  or  Yellowing  of  Citrus  Trees. 

28.  A     Preliminary    Progress    Report     of    Cereal    Investigations, 

1905-07. 

29.  Preliminary  Announcement  concerning  Instruction  in  Practical 

Agriculture  upon  the  University  Farm,  Davisville,  Cal. 

30.  White  Fly  in  California. 

32.  White  Fly  Eradication. 

33.  Packing  Prunes  in  Cans.    Cane  Sugar  vs.  Beet  Sugar. 

35.  Southern  California  Pathological  Laboratory  and  Citrus  Experi- 

ment Station. 

36.  Analyses  of  Fertilizers  for  Consumers. 

37.  Announcement  of  Farmers'  School  Courses,  1908. 

39.  Instruction  in  Practical  Agriculture  at  University  Farm. 

41.  The  School  of  Agriculture  on  the  University  Farm. 

43.  The  School  of  Agriculture  on  the  University  Farm.     Second  year. 

44.  Opportunities   for   Instruction   in   Dairy   Industry   at   the   Uni- 

versity Farm. 

45.  Farmers'  Short  Courses  at  the  University  Farm. 


Copies  of  bulletins  and  circulars  may  be  had  on  application  to  Director 
of  Experiment  Station,  Berkeley,  Cal. 


